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Blossom End Rot

Nothing is more disheartening than grabbing a beautiful tomato only to find the entire bottom is soft, black and rotten. Blossom end rot (BER) affects tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, squash and melons. Caused by insufficient calcium and uneven water during the rapid growth of the plant and its fruit, BER is easily avoidable with the proper precautions.

All vegetables need calcium for healthy development. When tomatoes, peppers, melons and eggplant can’t get enough, the tissues on the blossom end of the fruit break down. By testing your soil to determine its pH and calcium content, regularly watering and curbing fertilizer use, your susceptible veggies should be free of BER.

The best prevention occurs before planting. The soil pH determines the amount of calcium available to a plant. At lower pH levels, less calcium is available for the plant to absorb because it becomes chemically tied up in the soil. Most vegetables grow well in soils with a pH of 6.2-6.8. However, vegetables susceptible to BER require a pH of 6.5-6.8, where more calcium is available and it can be more easily absorbed, especially during rapid growth and fruiting periods. If the pH is lower than 6.5, the crop is likely to develop BER. This can also occur when the pH is correct, but the soil contains an insufficient amount of calcium.

Water fluctuations and excessive fertilizer also affect nutrient absorption. A plant requires water to absorb nutrients. If no water is present, no nutrients can be absorbed, and in addition to blossom end rot, plants may be small and weak as well as more susceptible to other pests, diseases and deficiencies.

Additionally, too much fertilizer can cause a plant to grow so quickly that the nutrient uptake cannot meet the demands of growth, leading to BER. In these cases, the plants grow so rapidly and develop produce so quickly that there isn’t time for the proper nutrient balance to be absorbed, including the right amount of calcium. Because of this accelerated growth and insufficient nutrition for the growth pace, plants will be more susceptible to blossom end rot.

Unfortunately, simply adding calcium to the soil will not stop BER this year, but it can help your soil become better conditioned for next year. However, we do carry several products to help with this year’s crop as well. Easy-to-use calcium sprays can save much of this year’s crop of tomatoes or other vulnerable produce. Come on in and our knowledgeable staff will help you find the best product for your situation, as well as for tips on how to improve your soil’s pH levels, calcium content, moisture retention and overall nutrition so blossom end rot is never a problem in your garden again.

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Late Spring Gardener’s Calendar

Turn over your vegetable garden and add humus, mushroom compost or manure to enrich the soil. Apply Bonide Fruit Tree Spray as buds swell and again at petal drop to all fruit trees.

Fertilize perennials with Dr. Earth Rose & Flower Fertilizer.

Continue spring cleanup. Completely remove winter mulch. Cultivate to remove winter weeds and debris from the planting beds, then edge. Prepare your annual beds, and mulch landscape beds with shredded mulch, bark chips or gravel. Apply Preen or Corn Gluten and scratch it in to prevent future weeds, or try the new Preen Mulch Plus which combines mulch and Preen and prevents weeds for up to 6 months.

Plant and transplant trees and shrubs, including roses, ground covers, and perennials (including hardy lilies and lily-of-the-valley).

Seed or sod new lawns. Reseed bare spots in established lawns. Keep the area moist until seedlings appear, then mow when the new grass is 3” high.

Put down a second application of Team or Tupersan (newly seeded lawns) for pre-emergent goosegrass control and control of crabgrass the rest of the year.

Transplant cool-season seedlings into the garden. When the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees, sow warm- and cool-season vegetable and herb seeds.

Dig and divide crowded spring bulbs after they have finished blooming. Enrich the soil with compost, manure or Espoma Bulb-Tone.

Prune forsythia and other spring-flowering trees and shrubs after the flowers fall.

Place gro-thru sets and link stakes over or around peonies, grasses or any other perennials in need of support.

Check arborvitae, cedar, juniper spruce and pine for bagworms. Hand-pick bags from the host and spray with Ortho Systemic Insecticide.

Begin summer rose care program of deadheading, spraying and watering.

Fertilize roses with Bayer All In One Rose and Flower Care or Dr Earth Rose and Flower Fertilizer, azaleas with Espoma Holly-Tone or Dr Earth Azalea/Camelia Fertilizer, and fruit trees with Dr Earth Tomato and Vegetable Fertilizer.

Deadhead bulbs, but leave foliage to mature and yellow before removing. This will help nourish the bulb for next year’s flowering. Fertilize with Dr Earth Bulb Fertilizer.

Prune new growth on needled evergreens.

Dig and divide early blooming perennials after flowering.

Apply Encap Fast Acting Iron Plus or Bonide Liquid Iron Plus to azaleas, hollies, junipers, laurel, pines, rhododendron and spruce to provide iron for chlorophyll production by foliage.

Fertilize container plants and window boxes weekly with a Master Nursery Bud and Bloom Plant Food, or use Dynamite All Purpose Plant Food for season-long feeding, to promote healthy, vigorous plants all summer.

Pay close attention to the watering needs of these plants as well as hanging baskets, because they tend to dry out quickly on hot summer days.

Check plants for spider mite damage and treat with Bayer 3 in 1 Insect, Disease and Mite Control then alternate every 7-10 days with Bonide All-Season Oil Spray.

Try Delosperma

“Ice plants” refer to several types of plants, usually succulents with fleshy thick leaves in cool green-blue colors. However, after an introduction to Delosperma, you’ll know it as the real deal. As a group of tough groundcovers, these blooming succulents flourish in full sun in well draining soils with little water, once they are established. Plus, they’re amazingly colorful!

About Delosperma

Native to Africa, with fleshy, clustered green leaves, Delosperma species and varieties solve many common groundcover, erosion and container garden needs. From only ½” tall and a few inches wide to 4 inches tall and spreading to 2 feet wide, Delospermas begin blooming with daisy-like flowers in early spring and often continue blooming through the summer. Depending on the variety, these perennial succulents punch up the garden with bright fuchsia, red, bronze, yellow, white, lavender or orange flowers, and several variegated or two-toned blooms are available as well.

A more adventurous gardener can turn up the heat with Delosperma ‘Fire Spinner.’ It quickly grows to an attractive weed-thwarting 2 inches high and 15 inches wide mat in two seasons. The variety name perfectly describes the flowers. It’s a kaleidoscope of hot colors on unbelievable 1½” wide fiery flowers. Radiating from a clear white center, petals with deep magenta color in the middle transition to hot orange, finishing with bronze on the outer tips. These arresting flowers sit atop shiny, apple-green needle-like succulent leaves making an astonishing garden statement from late spring through fall. What an unexpected showstopper!

What Delosperma Demands

Most gardeners are all too used to the finicky habits of their favorite plants, from precise soil pH levels to a specified amount of sunlight to a unique cocktail of soil fertilization and amendments for the best growth. Not so with Delosperma – all these plants ask (it’s more of a demand, really) is good drainage. With that, they’re fairly self sufficient – easy to care for and requiring very little maintenance.

Birds, bees and butterflies love Delosperma just as much as gardeners, but deer don’t, making these plants ideal for areas where deer are a bit too friendly in the garden. They work well as borders or to soften the edges of buildings, walkways and driveways, and they’re right at home in well-drained terraces, rock gardens and xeriscaping.

Whether you live in a naturally drought-prone area or just want to conserve water without sacrificing color and beauty, give Delosperma a try and you won’t be disappointed!

Heavenly Hosta

Hostas are amazing plants, truly glorious with heavenly foliage that is stunning as a specimen or in mass plantings. The thin spikes of purple or white, trumpet shaped flowers appear for several weeks in the summer and are an added benefit to this divine perennial. But how much do you know about hostas, and which can you add to your landscape?

Phenomenal Foliage

Hostas are praised by many for their magnificent variety of leaf sizes, colors and textures. These angels will grace your garden with heart-shaped, lance-shaped, oval or nearly round leaves, and leaf sizes vary as well. Smooth, quilted or puckered textures, with either a matte or glossy sheen, add to the glory and hostas’ radiant glow.

The leaf margins can be either smooth or wavy and range in color from light to dark green. Foliage colors also include chartreuse, gray and blue, depending on the cultivar. Variegated hostas with cream, white or yellow margins will radiate in a dark area of your garden.

Where to Plant Hostas

While most hostas are shade worshippers, some types will tolerate sun, depending on the overall climate and moisture levels. Hostas remain attractive from spring until frost and can withstand a wide range of growing conditions.

As choice groundcovers or single specimens in the landscape, hostas are certainly divine. Some hostas are quite unusual and rare and may increase in value each year, especially as the plants thrive and can be divided and transplanted with ease.

Best Hosta Care

Little maintenance is required to care for hostas. Cut off old flower stalks after flowers have faded. Divide plants occasionally to increase their quantity. Keep an eye out for pests, especially slugs and snails that munch on the foliage.

Types of Hostas

With so many selections and varieties, you can find a hosta the will fit into almost any garden situation. The most popular options include…

Dwarf & Small Hostas: In addition to being planted in secret little pockets throughout your garden or next to paths, dwarf and small hostas can be used in difficult places. Plant them among tree roots, on a slope or terrace or in rocky places containing little soil.
Edger Hostas: These hostas are 12” or less in height and have more horizontal growth. They are able to control weeds as they leave no light, when well established, or room for weeds to grow.
Groundcover Hostas: This group of hostas grows to 18” or less in height. They do a great job in areas difficult to weed or maintain. If you are in need of a hosta for use as a groundcover, keep in mind it works great to plant spring-flowering bulbs among them. The hosta comes up after the show of flowers and covers the fading foliage of the bulbs.
Background Hostas: Selections from this group grow to 24” or taller at maturity. They can be used to increase privacy where you sit and relax or to provide definition to your property line as a unique hedge.
Specimen Hostas: Specimens may be any size. Choose a site close to where the plant will be viewed so that every detail (texture, color pattern, buds, flowers and fragrance) may be enjoyed.

Not sure which hosta is right for you? Come in today and let our landscape and garden experts help you choose the right heavenly hosta to add a bit of the divine to your yard!

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Clematis

Beautiful, showy clematis are not as difficult to grow as you might think. Learning when to prune your clematis and giving a little attention to their few requirements will reward you with a magnificent show of colorful blooms.

Planting Clematis

A beautiful clematis starts with proper planting. Clematis prefer to have their roots in the shade and their tops in the sun. Keep the roots cool with a well-drained rich soil with added compost, peat moss or composted manure and a good layer of mulch. Planting ground cover or other low growing perennials around the base of your clematis will also help to keep the soil cool and minimize weed growth. Organic amendments will help to retain moisture when added to the soil. Feed monthly with a liquid fertilizer or use a slow release fertilizer which can last for up to six months.

A Note About Bloom Rates

For the first few years, clematis may be slow to grow. Just keep in mind that it is establishing its root system, which is essential to a healthy, vibrant plant. In its first year, your clematis may produce very few flowers or even none at all. By the second year there will be more growth and a few flowers. By the third year you should see substantial growth and many lovely blooms.

Planting Clematis

For the best chance of success if you are new to gardening with clematis, buy plants in larger containers. While smaller starts will be less expensive to buy, they will take a little more work to establish and can be more delicate and prone to failure. If you purchase a pot of any size and are not planting it in the ground immediately, be sure not to allow the soil in the container to dry out or the plant may be overly stressed and vulnerable.

Keep the climbing habit of clematis in mind when selecting your planting site. Allow your plants to grow up into large shrubs and trees, or on a trellis against a sunny wall. Select varieties with growth that will not exceed your shrub or trellis; a 20-foot vine may overwhelm a smaller shrub or a weak trellis and will look overgrown and out of place.

Proper Pruning

Clematis are divided into three distinctive groups. Knowing what group your clematis falls under will guide you on when and how to prune.

These pruning suggestions are for established vines that have been in the ground for at least three years. Young vines should all be pruned to 12 inches the second spring and to 18 inches the third spring. This helps to develop more shoots, a fuller vine and a better root system.

Group 1
This group includes certain species clematis and their cultivars which bloom early in the year. Some of the more familiar representatives of this group include the Montanas, varieties of C. alpina and C. macropetala. All of the Group 1 clematis bloom on growth made the previous year. They can be pruned to keep them within their allotted space or to remove dead and unsightly foliage. If they are pruned late in the season or before they flower, however, the cuts may remove potential flower buds and reduce that year’s flowering. To prevent this, prune Group 1 clematis right after flowering.
Group 2
These are the large flowered hybrids. They are often divided again into two subgroups – 2a and 2b. All of the clematis in Group 2 bloom on ‘old wood’ (actually on short shoots from old wood) and should not be pruned except for deadwood pruning in early spring after the leaf buds open slightly.
Group 3
These are the summer-blooming varieties such as the viticellas and Jackmanii types that bloom on new wood and the late bloomers such as Sweet Autumn Clematis (C. terniflora) and orientalis types. Clematis in Group 3 mainly flower on new wood produced in the current year and should be pruned back severely every year in late winter, when they are completely dormant, to about 12-14 inches. Leave at least two pairs of buds on each stem of the plant. Most clematis in this group are very fast growing and will reach their full height before blooming every summer.

Once you know how to properly care for clematis, you will find it to be a welcome addition to your landscape. If you aren’t sure just what your clematis needs to thrive, our expert staff will be glad to help be sure you and your plants have a great relationship!

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Shade Gardening: A Natural Opportunity

Although developing a garden for a shady area may require a little extra planning, some more thought and a bit more effort than sunny spaces, there are many opportunities to grow remarkable, unusual plants in the shade garden. Shade-loving plants are often noted for their foliage and can be combined to produce appealing contrasts in form, texture and color. From the glossy, dark greens of camellias and rhododendrons to the soft, silvery lamiums and the bold-textured, brownish-purple leaves of bergenia, the diversity of foliage available is positively breathtaking!

Defining Shade

The term “shade” encompasses many light conditions. Shade can range from dense darkness to the light-dappled shade under a birch tree. Most plants require at least a few hours of direct light each day (light shade) to look their best, especially if they feature bright colors in foliage or blooms. Some plants, however, do best in an abundance of filtered light (medium shade), especially if the shade is provided in the afternoon to cut the strongest rays of the sun. In the meantime, a few plants can thrive in the darkness of a forest (dense shade), without ever being exposed to bright, direct sunlight.

Other factors you will need to consider when planting your shade garden are the amount of moisture your shady spot receives and the soil conditions. The soil under large trees is usually dry because of the “umbrella” affect created. Other locations may have soggy soil that will only allow bog-type plants to grow. The soil’s drainage, pH and texture will all have to be taken into account to create the best shade-loving garden.

Not sure where to start for finding plants for a shade garden? Top shade-loving perennials and their requirements include…

Perennials for Dry Shade:

Convallaria majalis (Lily of the Valley)**
Dicentra ‘Luxuriant’ (Bleeding Heart)*
Epimedium perralchicum, pinnatum, pubigerum (Bishop’s Hat)*
Geranium maculatum, endressii, nodosum (Cranesbill)*
Helleborus foetidus*
Lamium maculaturm (Deadnettle)*
Polygonatum multiflorum (Soloman’s Seal)*

Perennials for Cool, Moist Soils in Shade:

Adiantum pedatum (Maidenhair Fern)**
Athyrium nipponicum ‘Pictum’ (Japanese Painted Fern)**
Cyrtomium (Japanese Holly Fern)**
Dryopteris erythrosora (Autumn Fern)**
Dryopteris marginalis (Marginal Shield Fern)**
Epimedium grandiflorum, warleyense*
Helleborus viridus, orientalis (Lenten Rose)*
Mertensia virginica (Virginia Bluebell)**
Polystichum acrostichoides (Christmas Fern)**
Polystichum setiferum ‘Divisilobum’ (Soft-Shield Fern)**
Tiarella cordifolia (Foam Flower)*
Tricyrtis formosana (Toad Lily)*
Trillium sessile, grandiflorum**

If you are you can find out more cialis uk suffering from the above symptoms are cardiovascular in nature.

Trollius europaeus*

Perennial Groundcovers in Shade:

Acanthus mollis (Bear’s Breech)*
Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’ (Goutweed)*
Asarum europaeum (European Wild Ginger)*
Galium odoratum (Sweet Woodruff)*
Lamiastrum galeobdolon ‘Florentinum’ (Variegated Archangel)*
Lamium maculatum ‘Beacon Silver’ (Dead Nettle)*
Luzula sylvatica ‘Marginata’*
Tiarella cordifolia (Foam Flower)*
Vinca minor*
Waldsteinia ternata (Barren Strawberry)*

Climbers for Shady Walls & Fences:

Akebia quinata, trifoliata
Clematis ‘Nelly Moser’
Euonymus fortunei ‘Coloradus’
Hedera helix (English Ivy)
Humulus lupulus (Golden Hops)
Lonicera japonica ‘Halliana’ (Japanese Honeysuckle)
Parthenosis henryana, quinquefolia, tricuspidata

*Does best in light shade
**Does best in medium to dense shade

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Ladybug or Lady Beetle?

The different names given to ladybugs are almost as numerous as the number of species. But bug or beetle, understanding more about these garden guests can help you better appreciate their diversity and all the help they can offer in your garden and landscape.

What’s In a Name

You may call them ladybugs (although they are not really bugs), lady beetles (they are technically beetles), lady birds or in Germany you would say “Marienkafer” (Mary’s beetles). In North America, there are more than 350 distinct species of ladybugs, and there are more than 4,000 ladybug species around the world. Most species can be identified by the pattern of spots on their elytra (flight wing covers). In many areas, these helpful insects go by different common names, including lady fly, lady cow, little hen, insect of fortune, Mary’s bug and more.

About These Bugs

Lady beetles are members of the beetle family Coccinellidae, which means “little sphere.” In their life cycle, a lady beetle will go through egg, larval, pupal and adult stages, though the length of each stage and how quickly the beetle proceeds through each one will vary depending on the species and local conditions. Lady beetles may live in shrubs, fields, trees and logs.

Lady beetles’ favorite food is the notorious aphid, though they do eat a variety of different insects. A female lady bug has huge appetite, eating from 75-100 aphids per day, while the male eats about 40 per day. This makes them ideal garden helpers, and many gardeners deliberately release swarms of lady beetles to help control aphid outbreaks. Most lady beetles are predators, but a few are plant eaters, and can be crop pests if not controlled appropriately. Crops most at risk from certain lady beetle species include potatoes, beans and different types of grain. When lady beetles swarm in vineyards and are inadvertently pressed with wine processing (it inevitable that some insects are part of the process), they can impact the taste of the resulting wine.http://amerikabulteni.com/2016/12/06/amerikan-universitelerinde-ogrencilere-en-cok-okutulan-10-kitap/ buy cialis online It entails a number of high quality and help achieving strong erections and provide complete excitement with your wife.

Self-Preservation

Lady beetles have some surprisingly innovative ways of protecting themselves. First of all is their coloring. Most predators know that bright colorings mean that their victim would likely taste gross, usually sharp or very bitter, and bold colors can even indicate poisons or stinging. While lady beetles don’t sting, their bold red and black coloration can easily mislead predators. Lady beetles also produce a pungent odor when threatened or may just play dead. As well, the lady beetle larvae is kind of alligator looking, so not many predators will not mess with it.

Ladybugs and lady beetles are fascinating insects, well known to gardeners throughout the world. The more you know, the more you’ll respect and appreciate these iconic insects.

Watering: How Much?

Water is critical for a healthy garden and landscape, but how much water is too much, how much isn’t enough and how much is just right? Unfortunately, there isn’t a specific answer that suits every gardener’s needs. All plants have different water requirements, which change depending on the type of soil, amount of sun, temperature, humidity, season, maturity of the plant and overall growing environment.

Initial Watering

All plants, including specimens described as drought tolerant, will require water when first planted. This is because many of the smaller roots responsible for water uptake are usually damaged during shipment and planting. Build a small circular soil wall around the plant to contain water while it percolates into the soil. Watch new plants carefully and keep them well-watered as their roots settle in and they adapt to their new or transplanted location.

Groups Are Good

It’s a good idea to have some knowledge of the plant’s water requirements when determining the location in the garden. It will keep watering simple if you plant a new specimen near other plants with similar water requirements. In this way, there is no need to readjust an irrigation system or watering schedule, since all the plants in the group have similar needs.

Need a Drink?

Because plants’ watering needs can change through the season, how can you tell if a plant needs more water? Most plants will wilt as the soil becomes too dry. The leaves may droop, and if it’s an upright plant, the top ends may become soft and bend over. Glossy plants may begin to look dull, while thick leaves will shrivel. If you notice these signs, it is time to water! Most plants will revive if watered quickly enough, but be sure to water deeply rather than allowing moisture to run off the surface.

How can you tell if you should water? Push your finger into the soil an inch or two from the base of a plant. Perfect soil should feel cool and slightly moist. Some soil should stick to your finger. If none does, it’s too dry. If it’s muddy, don’t water. Overwatering kills plants by depriving the roots of oxygen. Some gardeners use water meters to see the precise amount of moisture. If you’re unsure, this tool can be helpful.

Adjusting Your Watering Schedule

The amount you have to water your plants or landscape can change from day to day. A cool morning will allow more dew to form and drain to the soil, or a sudden afternoon thunderstorm can be enough water to keep your plants hydrated for a few days. An overly hot day, however, can rapidly deplete water resources and extra watering may be required. Check your plants and landscape regularly to be sure they are getting adequate water, and make adjustments as needed to keep them suitably moist without either too much or too little water.

Need help monitoring water? Stop by to see our collection of water gauges, meters and monitors that can help you be sure you are watering your landscape correctly.

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Strawberries: Home Grown in Hanging Baskets

Do you grow strawberries? Ripe, sweet, juicy strawberries are the number one favorite fruit in the US and are definitely worth the garden space. However, if you have a small or limited growing space, raising strawberries in hanging baskets offers a creative and space-saving solution while adding a decorative touch to outdoor areas.

Benefits of Growing in Hanging Baskets

Space Efficiency: Hanging baskets utilize vertical space, making them ideal for small gardens, balconies, and such.
Ability to Relocate: If an unforeseen deep frost or a scorching day arrives, hanging baskets may easily be temporarily relocated to a frost-free or cooler location.
Pest Management: Elevating strawberries can help deter pests like slugs and snails, reducing the risk of plant damage.
Improved Air Circulation: Hanging baskets allow for better airflow around the plants, which can help prevent diseases such as mildew.
Increased Water Drainage: Water drains quickly and easily from most hanging baskets, helping to prevent root rot.
Easy Access: Harvesting strawberries from hanging baskets is convenient and doesn’t require bending or stooping, making it suitable for gardeners of all ages and abilities.
Aesthetic Appeal: Hanging baskets add visual interest to your garden or outdoor space, providing a beautiful display of cascading foliage and ripe berries.

Selecting the Right Varieties:

Choose strawberry varieties that are well-suited for container gardening, such as Alpine, Day-neutral, and Everbearing. Alpine types do not produce runners, while Day-neutral and Everbearing types produce few runners, thus putting their energy into increased fruit production. It is best to avoid June-bearing types when planting in hanging baskets, as they produce excessive runners at the expense of fruit production. Also, consider factors like flavor, size, and yield when selecting varieties.

Alpine

Alpine strawberries are delightful little fruits that pack a punch of flavor despite their small size. What sets Alpine strawberries apart is their intense sweetness and aromatic fragrance. They typically have a more concentrated flavor compared to their larger counterparts, making them a favorite among gardeners and fruit lovers.

These plants are also known for their ability to produce fruit continuously throughout the growing season, ensuring a steady supply of delicious berries for eager growers.

Here are three popular varieties of alpine strawberries that thrive in hanging baskets:

Alexandria
This variety is prized for its sweet, aromatic berries and vigorous growth habit. ‘Alexandria’ produces an abundant yield of small, deep red fruits that pack a punch of flavor. They have a lovely trailing nature, which creates an attractive cascade of foliage and fruit. With proper care, ‘Alexandria’ plants can produce fruit continuously throughout the growing season, providing a steady supply of delicious strawberries for snacking or culinary use.
Mignonette
Renowned for its intense strawberry flavor, ‘Mignonette’ Alpine strawberries are a favorite among gardeners. These petite, ruby-red berries boast a rich, complex taste reminiscent of wild strawberries, making them a delightful addition to desserts or salads or enjoyed fresh off the vine.
Ruegen
With its vigorous growth and prolific fruit production, ‘Ruegen’ Alpine strawberries are a popular choice for hanging baskets. This variety produces medium-sized, bright red berries with a sweet, tangy flavor that is simply irresistible. ‘Ruegen’ plants feature cascading stems adorned with delicate foliage and clusters of berries, creating a picturesque display in hanging baskets.

Everbearing & Day-neutral

Everbearing strawberries typically produce two to three harvests of fruit each year: one in late spring to early summer, another in midsummer, and sometimes a third in early fall. They initiate flower buds in response to day length, meaning they typically produce their main crop in the spring and a smaller crop later in the season. After the initial flush of fruit, everbearing varieties may produce sporadic berries throughout the summer and into the fall. However, their fruiting is influenced by day length, so they may slow down or stop producing during the hottest months of summer.

On the other hand, Day-neutral strawberries are less dependent than Everbearing strawberries on day length for flowering and fruiting. Instead, they produce fruit consistently throughout the growing season, regardless of day length. Day-neutral varieties initiate flower buds based on temperature rather than day length, allowing them to flower and fruit continuously as long as temperatures remain within their preferred range. This makes them ideal for regions with mild climates where temperatures stay relatively consistent throughout the year. Day-neutral strawberries typically produce smaller harvests of fruit compared to everbearing varieties but over a longer period of time.

Here are our favorite everbearing and day-neutral strawberry varieties popular for growing in hanging baskets:

Seascape
‘Seascape’ strawberries are prized for their exceptional flavor, firm texture, high yields, and compact size, making them a top choice for hanging basket growth. These berries boast a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, making them excellent for fresh eating, preserves, or adding to desserts.
Tristar
Loved for its robust flavor and reliable performance, ‘Tristar’ strawberries are known for their intense sweetness and juicy texture, making them a delightful addition to salads and desserts or enjoyed fresh off the vine. ‘Tristar’ plants are compact and produce abundant fruit throughout the growing season, making them well-suited for small-space gardening and hanging baskets.
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‘Evie-2’ strawberries are esteemed for their large, flavorful berries and vigorous growth habit. These berries are known for their sweet, juicy flavor and firm texture, making them perfect for eating fresh, baking, or preserving. ‘Evie-2’ plants are compact and produce fruit prolifically throughout the season.
Albion
‘Albion’ strawberries are known for their large, firm berries and high yields. They have a deliciously sweet flavor and are resistant to several common strawberry diseases. Their compact, runnerless growth makes them an excellent choice for hanging baskets where space is limited.
Quinalt
‘Quinalt’ strawberries are another everbearing variety that produces medium-sized berries with a sweet, juicy flavor. ‘Quinalt’ strawberries are also known for their high tolerance to heat, making them a great choice for growing in containers during the summer months.

Each of these strawberry varieties offers something unique, whether it’s compact growth, continuous fruiting, disease resistance, or ornamental appeal, making them excellent choices for growing in hanging baskets.

Hanging Basket

YOUR GARDEN CENTER offers a fantastic assortment of hanging baskets. When making your selections:

Opt for hanging baskets with sufficient drainage to prevent waterlogging.
Select a hanging basket large enough to hold your strawberry plant(s).
Ensure the basket is sturdy enough to support the weight of the soil and plants once they’re fully grown.
Choose a hanging basket color and style that goes well with your house.

Soil Mix

Use a well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter.
If needed, incorporate perlite or vermiculite to improve aeration and drainage.
Consider adding slow-release fertilizer or compost for long-term nutrient availability.

Planting

Fill the hanging basket with the prepared soil mix, leaving enough space for the strawberry plants.
Gently remove the strawberry plants from their pots and carefully separate any tangled roots.
Plant the strawberries in the basket, ensuring the crown (where the roots meet the stem) sits just above the soil level.
Space the plants evenly to allow for proper growth and airflow.

Watering and Care

Provide adequate sunlight exposure, aiming for at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day.
Water the strawberries regularly, keeping the soil consistently moist but not sopping wet.
Mulch the surface of the soil to help retain moisture.

Maintenance and Harvesting

Remove any runners (long stems that produce new plants) to encourage the development of larger berries.
Fertilize the plants every 4-6 weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Harvest ripe strawberries as they become ready, typically when they reach a deep, vibrant color and are firm to the touch.

Growing strawberries in hanging baskets makes cultivation and harvesting a cinch. Gardeners can enjoy fresh, flavorful berries while maximizing limited space. Why not give it a try this spring?

Square Foot Gardening

Square foot gardening is a highly efficient method that maximizes space, minimizes waste, and simplifies the gardening process. Mel Bartholomew popularized it in his book “Square Foot Gardening,” which was first published in 1981. Since then, it has gained widespread acclaim for its simplicity and productivity. Still widely used and as popular as ever, allow us to give you some insight into this resourceful and fun form of gardening.

The What and Why of Square Foot Gardening

Square foot gardening is a method of intensive gardening that utilizes space by dividing a garden bed into small, manageable squares. Each square foot section is carefully planned and planted with specific crops, allowing for efficient use of space and resources. This technique emphasizes close spacing, weed control, and soil conservation, making it an ideal option for urban spaces or anyone looking to grow a lot in a limited area. Here are some of the many benefits of square foot gardening.

Space Efficiency

Traditional row gardening can be space-intensive and inefficient. Square foot gardening optimizes space by growing plants in a grid layout, allowing you to grow more in less space.

Weed and Pest Control

With square foot gardening, the close spacing between plants helps to naturally suppress weeds by shading the soil and minimizing open space where weeds can take root. Additionally, it’s easier to spot and manage pests in a small, densely planted area.

Water Conservation

By concentrating plants in small, defined areas, square foot gardening reduces water waste by minimizing runoff and evaporation. This makes it an environmentally friendly option, especially in drought-prone areas.

Accessibility

Raised square foot garden beds are typically elevated off the ground, making them more accessible for individuals with mobility issues. Their size, no wider than 4 feet, also makes it easier to reach across, reducing the need for bending and kneeling.

Simplicity and Manageability

Square foot gardening is easy to learn and requires minimal upkeep. Its structured layout makes for efficient use of time and resources.

Steps to Start and Grow a Thriving Square Foot Garden

The first and most important consideration when beginning a square foot garden is its size. It should be manageable and easily accessible from all sides. A width of around 4 feet is often recommended to ensure you can reach the garden’s center without stepping on the soil or plants. In addition to width recommendations, the overall size of your square foot garden can vary based on factors such as space availability, personal preference, and maintenance considerations. Start with a size that fits your needs and gardening goals, and don’t hesitate to adjust or expand your garden as you gain experience and discover what works best for you.

After considering the size, the following list will help you establish your first-ever square foot garden.

Prepare
Build or purchase a raised garden bed. Fill it with a high-quality soil mix containing equal parts of compost, peat moss, and vermiculite or perlite, or simply look for an already prepared, high-quality raised bed soil mix.
Divide
Using a grid system, divide the surface of your garden bed into square foot sections. You can mark these sections using string, wooden slats, or other suitable material.
Plan
Plan your planting arrangement, keeping plants with similar growing requirements together to simplify watering and maintenance. For example, place all lettuce squares together, all herb squares together, etc. Vertical space is exploitable growing space. Utilize trellises, cages, or stakes for vining crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, or pole beans to maximize vertical growing space. Plan for succession planting by staggering plantings of quick-maturing crops throughout the growing season. This ensures a continuous harvest and maximizes garden productivity.
Plant
Each square foot section can accommodate a certain number of plants, depending on their size. Consult an online square foot planting guide to determine the appropriate spacing for each type of vegetable or herb. For example, a single tomato plant may occupy one square foot, while several smaller plants like lettuce or carrots can be planted more densely. Don’t forget to tag your plants. Use labels and plant markers to identify each square foot section and keep track of what you’ve planted. We’ve provided a beginner’s growing guide below.
Maintain
Regular maintenance tasks include watering, weeding, and fertilizing as needed. Since square foot gardens are typically smaller, these tasks are more manageable and require less time and effort than traditional gardens.

Also worthy of consideration:

Succession Planting
As you harvest crops throughout the season, replant empty squares with new crops to maximize your garden’s productivity. Succession planting ensures a continuous harvest and keeps your garden thriving throughout the growing season.
Crop Rotation
Rotate crops within your square foot garden yearly to prevent soil nutrient depletion and minimize pest and disease problems. This involves planting different types of crops in each square foot section to maintain soil health and balance.
Season Extension
Consider using techniques such as row covers, cold frames, or hoop houses to extend the growing season and protect your crops from frost. This will allow you to enjoy fresh produce for a longer period.

Beginner’s Growing Guide: Easy Plants for the Square Foot Garden

For beginners starting with square foot gardening, it’s best to begin with easy-to-grow and versatile vegetables and herbs. Here’s a list of beginner-friendly plants and a simple layout to get started:

Lettuce: Varieties like leaf lettuce or butterhead lettuce are quick-growing and can be harvested multiple times throughout the season. Plant 4 plants per square foot, spacing them about 6 inches apart in a grid pattern.

Spinach: This nutrient-rich green is cold-hardy and can be harvested multiple times as baby greens or allowed to mature. Plant 9 spinach plants per square foot, spacing them about 4 inches apart in a grid pattern.

Radishes: Fast-growing and low-maintenance, radishes are perfect for beginners and add a peppery crunch to salads and snacks. Sow radish seeds thinly across the square foot section, allowing about 16 plants per square foot.

Carrots: Choose smaller varieties like ‘Thumbelina’ or ‘Paris Market.’ These are best for compact spaces. Carrots thrive in loose, well-drained soil. Sow carrot seeds thinly across the square foot section, aiming for about 16 plants per square foot. Thin out seedlings to ensure proper spacing as they grow.

Cherry Tomatoes: Compact varieties like ‘Patio’ or ‘Tiny Tim’ are well-suited for small spaces. Plant 1 cherry tomato plant per square foot. Support the plant as it grows using a cage or trellis.

Green Beans: Bush varieties of green beans are easy to grow and produce abundant yields. Pole beans are grown vertically to save space. Plant 9 bush bean plants per square foot, spacing them about 4 inches apart in a grid pattern. Plant 4 pole bean plants per square foot. Provide a trellis or support structure for the beans to climb as they grow. Space the plants evenly within the square foot section, allowing them enough room to spread out and climb the support structure without overcrowding.

Herbs: Basil, parsley, cilantro, and chives are among the easiest herbs to grow and are versatile in the kitchen. Plant 4 herb plants per square foot, ensuring they have enough space to grow and flourish.

Square foot gardening offers a practical and efficient way to grow a variety of vegetables and herbs in a limited space. As you gain confidence and experience with this gardening method, you can experiment with a wider variety of crops to suit your taste and perhaps even expand your growing space. These principles will assist you in creating a thriving garden that provides bountiful harvests year after year.

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