Author Archives: GCSDev

Fall Chrysanthemums

No flower is more iconic of autumn than the chrysanthemum, and these beautiful mounding perennials are ideal for fall flowerbeds, pots, window boxes, borders, and many other uses. How will you get creative with chrysanthemums this fall?

Why We Love Chrysanthemums

Just when many other flowers are fading at the end of summer, chrysanthemums, or mums, are coming into their glory with a range of stunning autumn colors. Depending on the cultivar, these plants sport yellow, white, red, orange, bronze, pink, peach, wine, purple, and bicolored blooms. The flowers range from small, button-like blossoms to larger blooms reminiscent of daisies. Mum blooms are long-lasting when cut and they’re just as lovely in floral arrangements and bouquets as they are planted in containers, flowerbeds, and the landscape. This makes mums extremely useful for all manner of autumn décor.

Chrysanthemums are native to east Asia and northern Europe and were first domestically cultivated in China nearly 600 years ago. Today, there are more than 20,000 chrysanthemum cultivars worldwide. They are deer- and rabbit-resistant, making them a hardy option for landscaping beds, and with a bit of thoughtful care, these tender perennials can be a wonderful addition to any flower garden or fall containers.

Caring for Chrysanthemums

The hardiness of chrysanthemums depends on the cultivar as well as the local climate and even the microclimate in your landscape. These flowers prefer well-drained, rich soil with a neutral pH, so it is best to use a good quality potting soil in containers. When planting chrysanthemums in the garden or landscape, mixing compost or peat moss in the planting hole will help increase drainage and nourish the soil to promote the best blooms. A good rule of thumb is that if soil is good for vegetables, it will also be good for mums – making them a wonderful choice to refresh a garden after the summer harvest has finished.

Chrysanthemums grow best in full sun requiring a minimum of six hours per day. If mums are planted in containers, consider using a mobile plant cart or a stand with casters so that the pots may be moved to brighter areas, if needed, as the season progresses.

Chrysanthemums prefer evenly moist, but not soggy, soil. Because of their thick, mounding habit, it is best to water mums from below suing a soaker hose or irrigation drip system in garden beds. In pots, mums should again be watered from below the plant but above the soil line. A watering wand will make this job direct and easy. Be sure to drain excess water from saucers after watering so the roots do not remain continually wet.

Fertilizing chrysanthemums every month through the spring and early summer, with a balanced fertilizer, will help them grow and bloom well, but if mums are planted in the Fall, they should not need extra feeding as long as they were planted in rich, nutritious soil. Deadheading spent blooms by pinching them back can encourage more flowering and help mums maintain their compact, mounding habit.

Decorating with Fall Mums

Chrysanthemums are a beautiful choice not only in the garden, but are equally lovely in welcoming porch pots, deck or patio containers, or even small indoor pots and arrangements. Add an extra touch of fall with rustic containers, such as wine barrels, baskets, or terra cotta pots, or glam up your mums in hammered copper or bronze pots that will accentuate their color. A burlap ribbon or bow can be a charming accent, and you can give more seasonal flair to mum arrangements or flowerbeds by adding pumpkins and gourds as fun decorations. Indoors, use small pails or pots for petit mum arrangements, or add them to larger arrangements with grain sprigs, dried pods, colorful leaves, or twists of grapevine for additional texture.

Fall chrysanthemums can be a pleasant burst of autumn color, whether they are part of the landscape or are used in containers, pots, or arrangements and we carry a wide selection to make your fall home suit the season!

Growing Garlic

Richly flavorful and packed with health benefits, garlic is a great ingredient for all your favorite savory dishes. Growing garlic is very easy and helps you keep a ready supply of this root vegetable (often also referred to as an herb or spice) on hand for quick access and instant flavoring.

Health Benefits of Garlic

Garlic, which is related to onions, shallots, and leeks, has many documented health benefits, making it a worthwhile addition to your diet. This bulb vegetable is segmented into cloves, and may yield 10-20 cloves per bulb. Just a clove or two added to different dishes can…

Boost immune function, minimizing colds and other minor ailments
Reduce blood pressure to improve cardiovascular health
Lower bad cholesterol levels and the risk of heart attack or stroke
Reduce bone loss risk, particularly in older women
Lower inflammation to improve arthritis and joint function

The health benefits of garlic are so well known that the plant has featured prominently in the medical treatments of different cultures for centuries, including the ancient Babylonians, Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, and Chinese. Today, many doctors continue to promote garlic as part of a healthy diet.

Tips for Growing Garlic

Fresh garlic has the most health benefits and is the most flavorful. It’s easy to grow garlic either in the garden – it is resistant to both deer and rabbits, making it ideal for borders to protect other produce – or in kitchen pots for easy access for all your cooking. To make the most of growing garlic…

Choose organic or locally grown garlic to grow. These cloves won’t have chemical treatments that could inhibit growth, and you will be able to monitor exactly what care your garlic receives.
Opt for hardneck garlic in northern climates because it is hardier, whereas softneck garlic can easily be grown in mild climates. If you will grow garlic indoors, either variety is suitable.
Choose large, firm cloves without any signs of damage, softening, or bruising for the best growth and largest crop to harvest.
Provide a cooling period of 6-8 weeks in the refrigerator for hardneck garlic, which requires a dormant period for optimal sprouting. Softneck garlic does not need as much cooling.
Use a pot at least eight inches deep so cloves have plenty of room to develop, and the pot should have abundant drainage holes to prevent root rot.
Space cloves at least 3-4 inches apart, or plant just one clove in each pot so the bulbs have adequate room for full development.
Use organically rich potting soil, or amend garden soil with compost to nourish young garlic. The soil should be loose and well-draining so garlic bulbs aren’t cramped.
Leave the papery skin on cloves for planting, and position cloves pointy-side up, 3 inches down into the soil. Cover the soil with a light layer of mulch or straw for protection.
Position garlic where it will receive 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Indoors, a south- or west-facing window is ideal, or use a supplement grow light to help garlic grow best.
Feed garlic carefully, using natural fertilizer, compost, or a high-phosphorus blend specially formulated for larger, healthy bulbs.
Water garlic well. The soil should be uniformly moist but not overly soggy, or the bulbs will rot and be unable to flourish.
If temperatures drop, protect garlic pots by wrapping them in insulating bubble wrap, carpet, or straw bales. For garden garlic, a layer of mulch will help keep soil temperatures even.

Harvesting Your Garlic

Garlic is slow-growing and will take 7-9 months before fresh bulbs can be harvested. When approximately 50-70 percent of the green tops of garlic plants begin to turn yellow or brown, the bulb is mature and ready to harvest. Use a hand rank or garden fork to carefully loosen soil around the garlic, gently lifting the bulb. Avoid bruising, scratching, or breaking the bulb, which would cause it to rot.

Gently wipe off excess dirt from the bulb, but leave the paper covering intact. Trim off the roots and stalks, and place the fresh bulbs loosely in paper bags in a cool, dry spot for 1-2 weeks. Air circulation should be good to cure the bulbs evenly, and garlic should be stored in a cool, dry place until it is ready to use, or until the best resulting cloves have been dormant long enough to plant and start the cycle over again for even more fresh garlic to enjoy.

Delightful Daffodils

Spring flowering bulbs are a must for every garden. They provide cheerful early-season color at a time when it is most needed, both in the landscape and by our winter weary souls. Daffodils are some of the most delightful Spring flowering bulbs! What makes them so delightful is their ease of care, diversity in their flower color, size, shape and fragrance, resistance to pests and disease, and their carefree ability to increase and return year after year, with little effort.

Daffodil Selection

Did you know that there are over 32,000 registered cultivars of daffodils? This number gives us some indication of the immense diversity of this flowering bulb with some varieties being easier to find than others. As you become more familiar with, and addicted to delightful daffodils, you will never get tired of adding more of these intriguing bulbs to your collection, possibly seeking out a few hard-to-find ones as well.

Note: All daffodils are narcissus, but not all narcissus are daffodils. For the sake of simplicity, we will refer to all narcissus and daffodils mentioned in this article as daffodils. Their care is the same and separating them will only complicate matters.

Daffodils require a cold period to bloom. Most daffodils will flower best in USDA Hardiness Zone 7 and lower. If you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 8 and higher, there are some daffodils that will do well in your area, or you may purchase pre-chilled bulbs. It will help to work with your local garden center to determine which daffodils do best in your particular area.

All daffodils bloom in the Spring. Within the Spring season, some will bloom early, mid-season, and late. Knowing when a particular daffodil flowers, will allow you to plant varieties for a succession of blooms to extend the whole season. As you begin growing daffodils, it may be easiest to choose some of the most popular and easy-to-find varieties

Early-season Bloomers

Barrette Browning – white petals with small orange cup, 1 to 2 feet tall, lightly fragrant.
Rijnveld – golden yellow, 15 inches tall, delightfully fragrant.
Tete a Tete – buttercup yellow, multi-flowering, miniature at 6 to 8 inches tall, fragrant.

Mid-season Bloomers

Dutch Master – large, golden-yellow daffodil, 1 to 2 feet tall, lightly fragrant.
Ice Follies – creamy white petals with a pale-yellow cup, 20 inches tall, lightly scented.
Pink Charm – ivory petals with a coral-colored cup, 18 inches tall, fragrant.
Professor Einstein – snow white petals with a reddish-orange cup, 16 to 18 inches tall, fragrant.

Late-season Bloomers

Acetaea – pure white petals with a small gold cup rimmed in red, 1 to 1 ½ feet tall, fragrant.
Cheerfulness – small flowering, multi-flowering and multi-stemmed, white double flowers with pale yellow flecks, 1 to 2 feet tall, very fragrant.
Tahiti – large, double flowering daffodil, bright golden-yellow with bright orange ruffled cup, 16 inches tall, fragrant.
Thalia – downward facing, pure white flowers with 2 to 3 flowers per stem, 1 foot tall, very fragrant.

Planting Daffodils

Daffodils are purchased and planted in the Fall for Spring blooms and are extremely easy to plant…. easy as dig, drop and done!

Plant daffodils in a sunny to part-shady, well-drained site.
Daffodils may be planted in single holes, rows, or in groupings.
Place daffodil bulbs 6 inches deep, pointy side up.
If the native soil is of poor quality or does not drain well, consider amending the soil with a quality compost.
Add bone meal to the planting area, to stimulate strong root development, before backfilling the area or holes with soil.
No need for deer or rodent protection, these bulbs are pest proof!
Water area after planting daffodils and wait for Spring!

With such wide diversity in one group of flowering bulbs, considerable beauty, ample fragrance, significant bloom time, and substantial pest resistance, wouldn’t you agree that daffodils are delightful?

Daffodils

Creating a Low-Maintenance Landscape

Looking for a landscape design that delivers curb appeal without demanding your weekends? It might be time to discover the benefits of decorative stone! Stone, rock, and gravel offer practical, polished solutions that minimize upkeep, maximize style, and provide significant long-term savings. If you’re eager to take yard maintenance off your to-do list without sacrificing an attractive outdoor space, you’re in the right place! Farm & Garden Station is here to guide you through everything you need to know about creating a stunning, low-maintenance landscape with rock.

Why Choose Rock?

Decorative rock landscapes go far beyond simple aesthetics. When you invest in a rock-based design, you’re choosing function, longevity, and a welcome break from repetitive yard work. Here are some core reasons why more property owners are switching to rock:

Long-Lasting Impact

Unlike wood mulch, which decomposes and demands frequent replenishing, decorative stone persists for five years, a decade, or even longer. Rock holds its color, resists breakdown, and keeps your yard looking consistent year after year. This translates into more time and money saved on outdoor upkeep.

Excellent Weed Suppression

When properly installed over quality landscape fabric, decorative rock forms a powerful physical barrier that blocks most weeds from emerging. This simple step reduces your need for herbicides and slashes your time spent on hands-and-knees weeding.

Minimal Watering

While organic mulch can help retain moisture, it often requires maintenance and doesn’t reduce the need for watering as much as you might think. Rock needs no watering at all. When paired with drought-tolerant plants, such as succulents, or xeriscaping, a rock landscape becomes a water-efficient solution offering both immediate and long-term environmental benefits.

No Decomposition or Pest Risk

Mulch is organic, which means it breaks down over time and can invite termites, ants, and pests. Rock, on the other hand, never decomposes, attracts fewer pests, and stays put even during heavy storms or wind. This results in a cleaner, more predictable landscape.

Fire Resistant & Durable

Decorative stone adds a layer of fire resistance to your property, which is especially critical in wildfire-prone regions. Rocks don’t burn, and they serve as a natural buffer near outbuildings, fences, or homes.

Where to Use Rock?

At Farm & Garden Station, we often hear customers ask, “Where exactly should I use decorative rock?” The answer is almost anywhere! Rock is one of the most versatile materials in landscaping, offering beauty and durability in every corner of your outdoor space.

Long-Term Garden Beds

Start by replacing mulch in your permanent garden beds. Decorative stone stays in place longer, resists fading, and won’t break down like wood chips, making it a significant upgrade around shrubs, trees, and perennials.

Patios, Paths, & Seating Areas

Rock is also ideal around patios, along walkways, and under outdoor seating or play areas where grass struggles to grow. It provides a smart, low-maintenance solution that maintains high curb appeal. It also performs beautifully in high-traffic zones, such as front entrances, signage beds, or along driveways, especially where you want a tidy, professional look without constant upkeep.

Types of Landscape Rock

With such variety in shape, color, and texture, landscape rock is more than just functional—it’s a stunning design element. Some popular options include:

River Rock: Smooth, rounded stones available in multiple colors and sizes. Perfect for naturalistic designs, dry creek beds, and defining garden borders.
Crushed Limestone: Clean and tightly compacting, making it ideal for driveways, walkways, and fire pit zones.
Pea Gravel: Small pebbles that provide comfort underfoot. Excellent for patios, playgrounds, or paths.
Slate Chips: Angular and modern, often used for high-contrast, contemporary beds and commercial plantings.
Decomposed Granite: A firm, drainage-friendly surface that packs tightly for paths, patios, or even outdoor seating areas.
Lava Rock: Lightweight, porous, and bold in color. Offers excellent drainage and a distinctive aesthetic for specific applications.

Selecting the right rock can enhance both function and visual appeal, so consider the colors and textures that harmonize with your home’s exterior or business brand.

Maintenance Tips

A landscape built with stone offers impressive reductions in maintenance, but a little effort goes a long way toward keeping it pristine. Consider these proven tips:

Install High Quality Landscape Fabric: Always start with a professional-grade fabric beneath the stone. This keeps weeds at bay, allows rainwater through, and prevents rocks from mixing with the soil below.
Refresh the Surface Layer Occasionally: Over time, tracks and settling may cause heavily trafficked areas to thin out. Adding a fresh top layer every few years will restore uniformity and color vibrancy.
Use Proper Edging for Containment: Edge beds with steel, concrete, or stone borders to prevent rock migration into lawns or other planting areas.
Keep Debris Under Control: Use a blower or light rake to clear leaves and organic matter in fall and spring.
Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicide: For added security against weeds, treat beds with pre-emergent product once or twice a year, or as needed.
Rinse Rocks: If dust or mud builds up, rinse with a garden hose or use a pressure washer on the lowest setting to restore their natural look as needed.

How to Select the Right Materials

How does decorative stone compare with organic mulch or a turf-heavy yard? Here’s a breakdown:

Material	Maintenance Level	Best Applications	Longevity
Rock	Very Low	Permanent Beds	5 – 10+ years
Mulch	Moderate	Flower Beds Annual Gardens	1 – 2 years
Turf	High	Play Areas Lawns Dog Runs	Ongoing

If your goals include lasting impact, hassle-free ownership, or improved property value, rock is typically the standout choice.

Stunning Results with Minimal Effort

A well-designed rock landscape offers lasting beauty with minimal work. The right mix of stones can add dynamic texture, highlight architectural features, and give your property a cohesive, professional appearance. By making smart choices up front, you can achieve eye-catching curb appeal and enjoy true low-maintenance living for years to come.

Farm & Garden Station provides an extensive range of landscape stone, from classic river rock to dramatic granite chips. Our staff is ready to help you calculate quantities, select complementary rock types, and even assist you with installation. Whether you’re revamping a single bed or tackling a multi-acre project, we’re here to help every step of the way.

Summer Lavenders

Do you enjoy making herbal or floral bouquets and wands to scent the house? Maybe you’re into the lavender cooking trend or like to infuse playful summer drinks with a floral touch. Perhaps you recognize the aromatherapy or medicinal qualities of lavender.

In other words, do you love lavender and are frustrated because the bloom season is so short?

Whatever you do with your lavender, you may have planted one and it bloomed for a few weeks. Now you think you have to wait another year to enjoy the beauty and fragrance. That’s no fun! But here’s a secret to prolong your passion during lavender season…

About Lavenders

There are actually three groups of lavenders. Members of each group bloom around the same length of time, but each group blooms at different times. By planting at least one member of each group, you can enjoy lavender from early spring to mid-summer (and sometimes even longer with careful watering).

Members of the “Non-English Lavenders” bloom from early to late spring. “English Lavenders” follow and bloom from late spring to early summer. True summer lavenders, known as “Lavendins,” continue blooming into the hottest days of summer.

Also called “English Lavender hybrids,” the varieties in this summer group are crosses between the Portuguese and English Lavenders. They all have large gray leaves, grow into large plants, and grow best in the heat. They are all very fragrant, making them welcome additions to any lavender garden.

Abriali Lavender was one of the first hybrids. It produced cosmetic-grade oil until Grosso Lavender replaced it with superior oil production. Happily, gardeners can also enjoy Grosso in their gardens, as it’s frequently available at garden centers.

White Grosso Lavender, with the same beauty and fragrance, provides a nice background for a mixed flower border. Edelweiss Lavender, a smaller white lavender, mixes nicely in the garden, without a reduction of fragrance.

Hidcote Giant Lavender and Provence Lavender are garden center favorites. Approximately the same size, the Hidcote Giant has darker flowers than the Provence, which has a longer flower wand. Sachets usually contain Provance buds because they are exceptionally easy to remove from the stalk. Other popular varieties include Grappenhall, Dutch Mill, Seal and Fred Boutin lavenders.

Lavenders In the Garden

Growing lavenders could not be easier. All thrive in full sun in warm, well-drained, average quality soil. Dampness, either through poor drainage or humidity, will kill them. They grow well in pots with good drainage and fair soil. Prune after blooming to shape the plants and promote future blooming. While lavender is drought resistant, if the soil is dry, it is necessary to water well. Water again only when the soil is dry. Using compost as fertilizer will provide critical nutrients and improve soil drainage.

Using Lavender

Lavenders are very attractive to bees. They happily buzz from flower to flower while collecting pollen. Some honey producers site their hives in the middle of lavender fields to produce lavender-scented honey. The honey’s aroma is a great way to start the day!

Drying lavender for future use is easy. Cut bundles of wands from the plants without cutting into the older woody part of the plant. Use a rubber band to hold the bundles together and hang them upside down in a dark, dry room such as an attic or closet. The darkness helps retain the bloom color. The bundle should be dry in 7-10 days.

Although lavender’s taste isn’t the same as its fragrance, lavender dishes appear in many trendy restaurants. Lavender martinis and teas, ice cream, cookies and other desserts accompany lavender-sauced meats and vegetarian dishes. Lavender is an ingredient in the herbs de Provence mix and replaces strong tasting herbs such as rosemary, thyme or mint in many cookbooks for meats, breads and general seasonings.

Some folks even use lavender as an antibacterial antiseptic to treat wounds and insect stings.

Even if you just want to enjoy lavender for the sake of its beauty and ease of maintenance, remember… Planting one of each of the three groups lets you love your lavender for three times as long. Enjoy!

Sunflowers

Grow one of the oldest American cultivated plants and join the Incas and Aztecs who grew – and revered – sunflowers more than 4,600 years ago.

Types of Sunflowers

While there wasn’t much variety in the sunflowers for ancient civilizations to grow, there certainly is now. ‘Russian Giant’ quickly grows to 12′ tall with a huge medium brown “face” surrounded by bright yellow petals. On the other hand, ‘Choco Sun’ looks similar but only grows to 15″ tall and with a 5″ face.

Don’t think all sunflowers are vertically growing brown and yellow either. ‘Cherry Rose’ has the familiar brown face, however deep red petals with tips of bright yellow-gold surround it. ‘Pastiche’ glows in reds, oranges and buffs. ‘Black Magic’ is completely dark. And ‘Inca Gold’ trails downward!

Kids love planting and watching their sunflower grow, grow and grow, and there are plenty of fun science projects kids can experiment with sunflower seeds. Later, eating the seeds is a healthy snack.

The folks in Kansas chose the sunflower as their state flower. As an American native plant, its diverse uses make it one of the economic forces in the agricultural world. As a crop, its seeds are in human and bird snacks, the oil is used for cooking and the remaining pulp is a popular livestock feed. Sunflowers also make gorgeous cut flowers in summer and fall.

Growing Sunflowers

Many sunflower varieties are available as seeds. Also, many garden centers often offer a selection of well-rooted seedlings or small plants. Tall or short, yellow or red, upright or trailing, the growing requirements are the same.

Start seeds indoors six weeks before the last frost date or sow seeds directly into the garden after all danger of frost has passed. Cover seed with 1/2″ of soil. Improve growth and bloom by working compost into the outdoor bed or pot. If you are growing giant sunflowers, provide a support such as a trellis or stake. Otherwise, they may fall over as they grow when the large heads get heavy with seeds.

Chose an outdoor location in full sun. As these plants develop, the flower heads will “track” the sun daily. However, contrary to popular myth, after the face develops, it stops and puts energy into seed production. To see the plant’s face, choose a location where you will see the flower facing eastwardly. At least six hours of sunlight produces beautiful flowers and abundant seeds. Provide regular water or plant seeds in a naturally moist location. They bloom from midsummer into autumn.

Birds love sunflower seeds. Therefore, cover the heads with netting if you plan to harvest. When harvesting, cut 12″ of stem with the head, hang it upside down and allow the head to dry. The seeds will loosen and be easy to rub off once dry. Alternatively, you may leave the flower on the plant to provide bird food through the fall and winter, or give the whole cut head to hungry birds. They’ll thank you for it. Just be sure to save a few seeds for next year’s sunflower garden!

The N-P-K of Fertilizer

Once upon a time, Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary grew her garden with silver bells and cockleshells, but nowadays, most gardeners use some other forms of fertilizer that are better formulated than nursery rhymes. But what important components make up a fertilizer, and why are those components important for your plants?

Understanding Fertilizer

Simply put, a fertilizer has nutrients to make a plant grow better. Years ago, farmers used composted manure, ashes and urine. Today, most of us buy our fertilizer, but a trip to the store can be confusing. What do those numbers on the fertilizer bag mean? Should I buy liquid or granular? Which is better, slow or quick release? Let’s investigate…

Without getting too technical, the three numbers show the percentage of available nitrogen (N), phosphate (P) and potassium (K) in a fertilizer blend. By law, it always goes in that order. If you see a fertilizer with 20-5-10, it means the fertilizer contains 20 percent available nitrogen, 5 percent phosphate and 10 percent potassium. Other nutrients and filler make up the difference and are often chosen for specific types of plants, such as roses or flowers, vegetables, trees, etc.

What does that mean to your plants?

Nitrogen promotes chlorophyll, producing greener, more quickly growing plants. If your plants aren’t as green as they should be, use a fertilizer with nitrogen. Most lawn fertilizers have a relatively high nitrogen content and cause mowing to be more frequent as lawns “green up” and grass blades grow more quickly.

Phosphate improves root growth, flowering ability and bloom size. Use a fertilizer with a larger middle number (phosphate percentage) to encourage root growth during transplanting or to encourage blooms. This is especially important when initially planting so root systems become strongly established.

Potassium enables the photosynthesis process and improves plant resistance to cold spells, drought and insect attacks. Many people use a potassium fertilizer when the seasons change to help plants resist the stresses of those transitions.

Liquid or Granular? Fast or Slow?

Fertilizers come in liquid and granular forms. Generally speaking, liquids are highly concentrated and need to be mixed with water before being fed to plants, but they are absorbed more quickly and are easy to apply more evenly. Granular formulas have small beads or grains that must be spread around and watered into the soil, and it can be difficult to spread an even layer over large areas unless a spreader is used. Granular forms need time to dissolve or decompose before they can be absorbed, but they last longer in the soil and can nourish plants for weeks or months.

Similarly, fertilizers come in fast or quick release forms as well as slow release forms. Both can work well in any garden, depending on your fertilizing needs, plant nutritional requirements and condition of your soil.

Read the label carefully for specific instructions and uses. It may seem boring, but reading that label will prevent bad results, as overuse or misuse of fertilizer can kill your plants, upset the balance of your soil and even cause environmental contamination – not the results you planned. Once you know more about fertilizer and how to use it correctly, however, you’ll enjoy the results this extra treat can give to your garden.

Watering When Away

It’s vacation time! You’re going to be gone for two weeks or more, your friends, neighbors and family members are all busy and the weatherman says it’s going to be “hot, hot, hot.” What about your houseplants?

Fear not! A few minutes of thoughtful planning and a quick trip to the garden center will ensure meeting your plants’ watering requirements even when you can’t be home for daily moisture checks. Popular and effective solutions include…

Pre-Watering: Before you leave on your trip, make sure your plants are well-watered. Many houseplants can withstand some watering neglect, and if you aren’t gone too long, they may not need any supplemental solutions if you’re watered them right before your trip. Take care not to overwater, however, or you could be compounding the problem.
Anti-Drought Solution: Prior to leaving, water with an anti-drought solution. It temporarily forces the plant into dormancy. This reduces the water requirement for roughly two weeks (effective control will vary by product and plant type) while the solution gradually wears off. This can affect blooming or growth periods, however, so read instructions carefully and use the solution exactly as directed.

Self-Watering Containers: Planting your houseplants in self-watering pots is truly looking ahead. A reservoir holds water under the pot, and this water gradually travels to the soil via a wick, always keeping the soil moist so long as the reservoir contains water. If you want to use a specific pot without a built-in reservoir, use a conversion kit. Various sizes are available and some use fill tubes. Consider adding liquid fertilizer to the reservoir water to ensure your plant gets proper nutrition while you are away.

Individual Pot Drippers: These generally hold water above the plant. Various sizes and styles provide water to small and large pots. From beautiful blown glass globes to simple plastic bottles, these allow water to drip down into the soil through a drip-tip inserted in the soil. One style even looks like a flask attached to the side of the pot with a tube dripping water to the soil. Because they show above the plant, many people only use them during their vacation.

Automatic Watering Systems: These are more elaborate but very effective options. A large water reservoir feeds to clustered houseplants through small tubing attached to drippers inserted in the soil. Larger pots use two or more drippers. These systems pump water on a regular basis using a battery and timer, making them ideal for regular watering when you may be taking a longer trip. These also allow liquid fertilizer in the reservoir so your plants are properly nourished.

Go ahead and enjoy your trip…your plants should be fine!

Lyme Disease

For those of us who work and play outdoors in deer tick-infested areas, Lyme disease is a reality. If caught early, the disease is usually cured with antibiotics. If not detected and treated early, Lyme disease can be a debilitating condition that may linger for months or years.

Lyme disease is transmitted through the bite of a deer tick. The tick becomes infected with the disease by biting an animal that is carrying the bacteria. The main culprits in our area are the white-tailed deer and white-footed mouse. Not every deer tick is a carrier of Lyme disease but it is wise to always take precautions to prevent potential infections.

Protect yourself and your family by:

Wearing light-colored clothes to help spot and identify deer ticks before they attach to spread the infection.

Wearing long sleeves and pants to minimize exposed skin that can attract deer ticks. Tuck your pants into your boots or socks. Include a hat for added protection.

Spraying exposed skin with a product that contains at least 20 percent DEET and spraying clothing, and all other cloth gear, with a product containing Permethrin. Always follow the product label when applying repellents.

Removing clothing and immediately laundering it when coming back indoors. Dry clothing at a high temperature for at least 30 minutes, since ticks are sensitive to dryness and will die quickly without appropriate moisture.

Showering immediately and thoroughly after being in a tick-prone area. Inspect all skin surfaces, especially hard-to-see areas like behind the knees, the back of the neck and in arm pits. Ticks that carry Lyme disease are very small and therefore hard to see. Ticks must be attached for at least 18 hours in order to transmit Lyme disease.
Protecting pets from ticks with appropriate collars, drops, powders or dips, and inspecting pets’ fur regularly for ticks or other pests.

Protect your yard by:

Mowing the grass regularly. Ticks thrive in longer grasses with moist soils, but are not as abundant in groomed areas.

Keeping leaves raked and keeping the yard free of refuse that can create moist patches in the soil where ticks will thrive.

Creating a protective barrier, at least 3-4 feet wide of mulch or stone, between yard and wooded area. Ticks are not easily able to cross these open areas.

Stacking wood neatly in a dry area where it is less likely to harbor a tick infestation.

Spraying your yard with a tick control product like bifenthin. Always follow the product label when applying pesticides.
Taking steps to discourage deer and mice in your yard, such as choosing deer-resistant plants and using traps responsibly to eliminate rodents.

By taking appropriate precautions to protect you, your family and your yard, you can minimize any risk of contracting Lyme disease.

The Cotinus Craze

Smoketree, the common name for the genus Cotinus, aptly describes the hazy, smoky look of the flowers sported by this fabulous plant. Best described as a deciduous large shrub or small tree, Cotinus boasts species with varying heights, unique summer flowers, outstanding fall color and low maintenance requirements, all features that can make it an excellent addition to your landscape.

Cotinus Care

Thriving in full sun, the smoketree isn’t particular about soil conditions; it is drought tolerant and virtually disease and pest-free. Cotinus does, however, require excellent drainage, and it is important that the soil not be soggy or compacted which will choke off roots. Although this plant may be pruned for size it is important to remember that the flowers appear in the late spring on old wood, therefore, fall or early spring pruning will eliminate the smoky flowers. When pruning is required to maintain size or shape, consider coppicing (cutting entire bush down to 12″ tall in early spring) every other year. This allows you to enjoy the flowers on alternate years but keep the plant to a manageable size.

Cotinus Varieties

We recommend two species and various varieties of Cotinus because of their sizes, colors and landscape beauty. The large C. obovatus, American Smoketree, is native to the eastern United States. A large specimen grows to 20′ tall and wide, with large bluish dark green leaves. In the fall, the leaves turn bright yellow, orange and bronzed red.

The smaller C. coggygria generally grows to 15-20′. The flower puffs of the purple-leaved cultivars ‘Purpureaus’, ‘Royal Purple’, ‘Norcutt’s Variety’ and ‘Velvet Cloak’ appear even stronger purple than the dramatic leaves. Especially when positioned against a light colored fence or wall, the purples seem to glow.

On the other hand, ‘Golden Spirit’, growing to only 7′ tall with lime green spring leaves, stands out against dark walls and fences, whether in the ground or in a container. ‘Pink Champagne’ pairs tannish-pink flower puffs with green leaves for a 10′ tall and wide, clean, contemporary look.

One of our favorites, ‘Grace’, is a hybrid of the two species. Growing to 15′ tall and wide, the purple leaves create a beautiful backdrop to large, deep pink smoke puffs. Autumn foliage colors include orange and a stunning red/purple/bronze.

Choosing Your Cotinus

With so many varieties of this stunning plant available, it can be difficult to choose your best Cotinus. Check the specific growing conditions for each variety, as well as its mature size, when selecting one for your landscape. Care for it meticulously until established, and you’ll be rewarded with many years of dramatic beauty to enjoy.

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