Author Archives: GCSDev

Milkweed and Monarchs

In nature, few relationships are as intricate and essential as that between the Monarch butterfly and the milkweed plant. Famous for being the most recognized insect in the US, these vibrant winged beauties rely on milkweed not only for sustenance but for their very survival. Sharing this fascinating relationship between Monarchs and milkweed with you, we’ll explore how this plant supports every stage of the butterfly’s life cycle.

Birthplace and Sanctuary:
Milkweed, genus Asclepias, serves as the cradle of life for Monarch butterflies. Female Monarchs lay their eggs exclusively on milkweed plants, offering them a safe haven as they undergo their transformation from egg to caterpillar to chrysalis to butterfly.

Caterpillar Cuisine:
Once the Monarch eggs hatch, the tiny caterpillars feast voraciously on milkweed leaves. These particular leaves provide the essential nutrients needed for the caterpillars to grow rapidly. As they munch on the leaves, they accumulate toxins from the milkweed sap, making them distasteful and even poisonous to potential predators. This unique adaptation is crucial for the survival of Monarch caterpillars in the wild.

Metamorphosis Station:
As the caterpillars mature, they undergo a miraculous transformation within their chrysalis, emerging as fully-formed adult butterflies. Milkweed habitats provide the ideal environment for this metamorphosis to occur. Not only is milkweed the favored source of food, but the structure of milkweed plants, with their sturdy stems and broad leaves, offers ample space for Monarch chrysalises to hang securely until the butterflies emerge.

Fueling the Journey:
During their remarkable migration journeys, Monarch butterflies rely on milkweed for sustenance. Nectar from milkweed flowers serves as a vital energy source, fueling their long flights across continents. As they journey thousands of miles from their breeding grounds to overwintering sites and back again, Monarchs depend on the abundance of milkweed along their migratory routes.

Conservation Connection:
The decline of milkweed habitats poses a significant threat to Monarch populations. Factors such as habitat loss, pesticide use, and climate change have led to a decline in milkweed availability across North America. Efforts to conserve and restore milkweed habitats are essential for ensuring the survival of Monarch butterflies. By planting milkweed in home gardens, individuals can contribute to the preservation of this vital butterfly species. Selecting the appropriate milkweed species is crucial for attracting Monarchs. While there are over 100 species of milkweed native to North America, some varieties are particularly favored by Monarchs, and many are region-specific.

Milkweed Species for Northeast and Midwest

In the Mid-Atlantic States, there are several native milkweed species that are crucial for Monarch Butterflies. Here are some of them, along with their details:

Common Milkweed (A. syriaca)
Common milkweed is perhaps the most well-known milkweed species.

It typically grows in tall clusters and produces pink to purplish flowers. It is most often found in a variety of habitats, including fields, meadows, and roadsides.

Swamp Milkweed (A. incarnata)
As the name suggests, swamp milkweed is often found in wetter habitats like marshes, wet meadows, and along stream banks. It has clusters of pink to mauve flowers. Swamp milkweed is an excellent choice for wetter areas where other milkweed species might not thrive.

Butterfly Weed (A. tuberosa)
Butterfly weed is known for its vibrant orange flowers and is a favorite among gardeners. It prefers well-drained soil and is often found in dry fields, along roadsides, and in open woods. While it’s not as commonly used by Monarch larvae as some other milkweed species, it’s still an important nectar source for adult butterflies.

Poke Milkweed (A. exaltata)
This milkweed species has tall, slender stems and delicate, pale pink flowers. It’s typically found in shaded woodlands and along forest edges. While it’s not as widespread as some other milkweed species, it’s still an important host plant for Monarch caterpillars where it occurs.

Whorled Milkweed (A. verticillata)
Whorled milkweed is characterized by its narrow leaves and small clusters of white flowers. It’s found in a variety of habitats, including dry fields, open woods, and roadsides. While it may not be as common as some other milkweed species, it’s still valuable for Monarch butterflies, particularly in areas where other milkweeds may not grow as well.

These native milkweed species will not only provide an essential habitat for Monarch Butterflies but also support other native pollinators in your area. Make sure to choose species that are appropriate for your specific region and growing conditions.

Cultivating Milkweed for Butterfly Abundance
Are you ready to invite the mesmerizing beauty of Monarch butterflies into your garden? Cultivating milkweed isn’t just about growing a plant; it’s about fostering an ecosystem, supporting biodiversity, and witnessing the awe-inspiring journey of one of nature’s most iconic creatures – the Monarch butterfly.

Now that you’ve chosen your milkweed varieties, it’s time to roll up your sleeves and get gardening! Here’s a general step-by-step guide to growing milkweed in the garden to create a haven for Monarchs.

Site Selection
Choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-drained soil. Although some exceptions exist, most milkweed plants prefer full sun but can tolerate partial shade.
Soil Preparation
Milkweed isn’t overly picky about soil type but does prefer soil that’s not too compacted. Loosen the soil to a depth of about 6 inches and amend with compost if necessary.
Planting
Sow milkweed seeds directly in the ground in early spring after the danger of frost has passed. If you prefer to start with seedlings, transplant them into your garden with plenty of space between plants to accommodate their mature size.
Watering
Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during the plant’s early growth stages. Once established, milkweed is relatively drought-tolerant.
Maintenance
Milkweed is generally low-maintenance, but removing weeds around young plants can help them thrive. Deadheading spent flowers can encourage continuous blooming and prevent self-seeding if desired.
Ongoing Support
Embrace the biodiversity that milkweed attracts by avoiding the use of pesticides and herbicides in your garden. Encourage beneficial insects and pollinators to make themselves at home alongside your Monarchs.

As your milkweed garden flourishes, so too will the population of Monarch butterflies that grace your outdoor oasis. By cultivating milkweed, you’re not just growing a plant – you’re fostering a connection to nature, supporting wildlife conservation efforts, and creating a sanctuary for Monarchs to thrive. So, roll out the floral welcome mat and prepare to be enchanted by the majestic beauty of Monarch butterflies in your own backyard.

Enhance Your Garden with A Hedge Border

As avid gardeners, we tend to focus on individual plants’ colorful blooms and lush foliage: that specimen tree, the rare perennial, or the colorful flowering shrub. However, there’s one often-overlooked garden feature that can significantly enhance the beauty, functionality, and biodiversity of your outdoor space: the hedge. Hedges are not just for grand estates or formal gardens; they can be a valuable addition to any size property, adding structure, privacy, and habitat for wildlife. Here’s why you should consider planting hedges in your home garden:

Definition and Structure
Hedges may be short or tall and provide a sense of definition and structure to your garden. They can delineate boundaries, create outdoor rooms, or frame specific areas within your garden. By defining spaces, hedges add visual interest and help organize the landscape, making your garden feel more cohesive and intentional.

Privacy and Screening
In an era where outdoor living spaces are becoming increasingly important, hedges offer natural privacy and screening from neighboring properties or busy streets. Unlike fences or walls, hedges soften the landscape and create a green barrier that not only provides privacy but also absorbs noise and reduces pollution. Whether enjoying a morning coffee on the patio or hosting a backyard barbecue, hedges can create a secluded retreat right in your own backyard.

Wildlife Habitat
Hedges act as valuable wildlife habitats, providing food, shelter, and nesting sites for birds, insects, and other small creatures. Native species such as hawthorn, holly, and viburnum are particularly beneficial, offering berries for birds and nectar for pollinators. By planting a diverse mix of native shrubs, you can attract a variety of wildlife to your garden, creating a thriving ecosystem right outside your door.

Seasonal Interest
Many hedge plants offer year-round interest, with evergreen species providing structure and color even in the depths of winter. Deciduous hedges, on the other hand, provide a changing tapestry of foliage, flowers, and berries throughout the seasons. The traditional, formal monoculture hedge still has a place in the landscape; however, a mixed hedge allows you to select a combination of plants with varying textures, colors, and bloom times. The mixed hedge can provide visual interest and beauty year-round.

Low Maintenance
Once established, carefully selected species are generally low-maintenance, requiring minimal pruning and care compared to many other garden plants. Regular trimming will help maintain the desired shape and density, but beyond that, most hedges are relatively self-sufficient.

Plant Selection
Creating a mixed hedge border is like composing a beautiful symphony of flowers, foliage, fruit, and such, with each plant playing its own unique role. We’ve provided some guidance on selecting and arranging plants for a harmonious mixed hedge border, incorporating short, medium, and tall plants to achieve a pleasant balance.

Before diving into plant selection, consider the purpose of your hedge. Are you looking for privacy, wind protection, or a garden structure, or are you simply looking to add aesthetic appeal? Knowing your purpose will help you choose the right plants for your hedge. It is best to first lay your design out on paper. This will ensure that you have enough room for your desired selections.

Also, while in the planning stages, consider factors such as sunlight and soil. Choose species well-suited to your climate and growing conditions, and aim for a mix of plants to maximize biodiversity and resilience. Consider incorporating fruiting and flowering species to attract pollinators and beneficial insects.

Short Plants (Under 3 feet)
Plants shorter in stature will form the front row of the hedge border. They may also be used as a monoculture to provide a structural border for an otherwise unruly flower bed or to line a walkway.

Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens)
Lavender (Lavandula spp.)
Dwarf Korean Lilac (Syringa meyeri)
Japanese Holly (Ilex crenata)
Creeping Thyme (Thymus praecox)
Dwarf Yaupon Holly (Ilex vomitoria ‘Nana’)
Blue Star Juniper (Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’)
Dwarf Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca ‘Conica’)
Rock Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster horizontalis)
Dwarf English Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Suffruticosa’)

Medium Plants (3 to 6 feet)
Medium-sized plants form the middle layer of the hedge, adding depth and texture. They provide a transition between the shorter and taller plants, and this is where many flowering species may be incorporated.

Spirea (Spiraea spp.)
Viburnum (Viburnum spp.)
Forsythia (Forsythia spp.)
Barberry (Berberis thunbergii)
Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius)
Potentilla (Potentilla fruticosa)
Weigela (Weigela florida)
Dwarf Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus compatus)
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)
Dogwood (Cornus spp.)

Tall Plants (Over 6 feet)
Tall plants are positioned at the back of the hedge border, providing structure, height, and a backdrop for the garden.

Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)
Privet (Ligustrum spp.)
Holly (Ilex spp.)
Elderberry (Sambucus spp.)
Summersweet Clethra (Clethra alnifolia)
Tall Fescue Grass (Festuca arundinacea)
Red Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea)
Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana)
Leyland Cypress (Cupressocyparis leylandii)
American Holly (Ilex opaca)

Hedges are a versatile and valuable addition to the home landscape, offering beauty, function, and ecological benefits in equal measure. Whether you’re looking to create privacy, attract wildlife, or add structure to your landscape, planting a hedge is a worthwhile choice. So why wait? Get out there and start planning and planting your hedge today, and watch as your garden transforms into a vibrant and biodiverse oasis for both you and your local wildlife to enjoy.

Baptisia Briefing: Growing A North American Native

Baptisia australis, commonly known as false indigo or wild indigo, is a stunning perennial plant beloved by gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 through 9. It offers numerous benefits, from environmental to aesthetic, while also being relatively easy to care for. Here are some reasons why adding Baptisia to your garden can be a great choice:

Baptisia Benefits

Native Plant:
Baptisia australis is native to North America, making it well-suited to local environmental conditions. By planting native species like Baptisia, you can support local ecosystems and provide habitat and food for native wildlife, including pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Soil Health:
Baptisia is a nitrogen-fixing plant, meaning it has a symbiotic relationship with certain soil bacteria that allows it to convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that can be used by plants. This helps improve soil fertility and overall soil health, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers.

Beautiful Flowers:
Baptisia australis produces stunning spikes of deep blue to purple lupine-like flowers in late spring to early summer, adding a vibrant splash of color to the garden and bouquets.

Attractive Foliage:
The foliage is equally appealing as the flowers. With blue-green eucalyptus-like leaves, Baptisia adds texture and interest to the garden even when the plant is not in bloom. The leaves are a long-lasting cut foliage for summer bouquets.

Architectural Form:
The upright, bushy growth habit of Baptisia australis adds structure and architectural interest to garden beds and borders. Even when not in bloom, its foliage provides a handsome backdrop for other plants in the garden.

Seed Pods:
After the flowers fade, Baptisia develops interesting seed pods that persist into fall and winter, adding visual interest and texture to the garden landscape.

Low Maintenance:
Once established, Baptisia australis is a low-maintenance plant that requires minimal care. It is drought-tolerant and thrives in a wide range of soil types, including poor, sandy, or clay soils. It is also relatively pest and disease-resistant, further reducing the need for human intervention.

Longevity:
Baptisia australis is a long-lived perennial, providing decades of beauty and enjoyment in the garden without the need for division or replacement.

Planting and Growing Baptisia

When growing Baptisia, selecting the right location is crucial for its success. Baptisia thrives in full sun to partial shade, preferring at least six hours of sunlight daily. Ensure that the soil is well-draining, as Baptisia does not tolerate waterlogged conditions. While it can adapt to various soil types, it prefers slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. This large perennial can grow up to 4 feet wide and tall, giving you a generous bang for your buck. Make sure that you provide it with the room it needs to grow to full maturity as it resents being moved or divided.

Spring or fall is the best time to plant Baptisia. Begin preparing the planting area by loosening the soil and incorporating organic matter such as compost. Dig a hole slightly larger than the plant’s root ball and place the Baptisia at the same depth it was previously growing. Backfill the hole with soil, gently firming it around the plant, and water thoroughly. Adding a layer of mulch to the surrounding soil will help prevent the newly planted perennial’s roots from drying too quickly.

Once established, Baptisia is relatively low-maintenance. Water newly planted Baptisia regularly during the first growing season to help it establish a robust root system. Afterward, Baptisia is drought-tolerant and typically only requires supplemental watering during prolonged dry spells.

In early spring, before new growth emerges, prune Baptisia by cutting back the previous year’s growth to the ground. This encourages healthy new growth and helps maintain the plant’s shape. At this time, apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plant to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and insulate the roots.

Baptisia Garden and Landscape Design

Baptisia can be used in a variety of ways to create stunning effects. It works well as a border plant, edging pathways, or defining garden beds. Planted en masse, it can create a bold statement in the landscape. Planted alone, it will provide a striking focal point. Baptisia also pairs beautifully with other perennials and shrubs, adding depth and dimension to mixed borders and perennial gardens.

For a naturalistic look, Baptisia can be incorporated into prairie or meadow-style plantings, where it can mingle with grasses and wildflowers to create a relaxed atmosphere. It can also be used in other informal designs, such as densely planted cottage gardens, where it will capture attention in the early part of the growing season. Give it a try in formal borders, where its upright habit and structured foliage provide a sense of order and balance. Overall, Baptisia is a plant that finds its way to work well in just about any garden situation.

Cultivars

Baptisia australis is an excellent choice for both beginner and experienced gardeners alike. Although the straight species sports blue to purple flowers, there are approximately twenty other Baptisia species, all native to North America, and numerous cultivars available in a variety of colors.

Here is a list of ten popular cultivated varieties of Baptisia that show off the plant’s diversity in color and size:

Baptisia ‘Blueberry Sundae’: This variety features rich, deep blue flowers and compact growth habit, 2.5 – 3 feet tall and wide.

Baptisia ‘Cherries Jubilee’: Known for its striking reddish-purple flowers, this variety adds a vibrant touch to the garden, size 2 – 3 feet tall and wide.

Baptisia ‘Lemon Meringue’: A unique variety with lemon-yellow flowers, adding a bright pop of color to the landscape, size 2 – 3 feet tall and wide.

Baptisia ‘Twilite Prairieblues’: This cultivar boasts deep violet-blue flowers with a yellow keel, creating a stunning contrast, size 3 – 6 feet tall and wide.

Baptisia ‘Pink Truffles’: Offering soft pink flowers, ‘Pink Truffles’ brings a delicate and charming look to garden beds, 3 feet tall and wide.

Baptisia ‘Carolina Moonlight’: Featuring creamy yellow blossoms, ‘Carolina Moonlight’ can brighten up a garden with a cheery splash of color, size 3 – 4 feet tall and wide.

Baptisia ‘Purple Smoke’: Renowned for its smoky violet flowers, this variety adds an ethereal quality to garden landscapes, size 3 – 4.5 tall and wide.

Baptisia ‘Solar Flare’: With vibrant orange-yellow flowers, ‘Solar Flare’ is a bold and eye-catching choice for gardens, size 4 feet tall and wide.

Baptisia ‘Midnight Prairieblues’: This variety showcases deep blue flowers and a compact, bushy growth habit, 3 – 4 feet tall and wide.

Baptisia ‘Dutch Chocolate’: A unique cultivar with rich, chocolate-colored flowers, adding a touch of drama to the garden, size 2.5 – 3 feet tall and 2 feet wide.

These varieties offer a range of colors and characteristics, allowing gardeners to choose the perfect Baptisia for their landscape design.

Beautiful Baptisia should grace every garden! Not only does this perennial provide unique and vibrant flowers, foliage, and seed pods on a plant with a lovely architectural form, but it also offers environmental benefits, such as supporting native wildlife and improving soil health. Its ease of care makes it an excellent choice for both beginner and experienced gardeners looking to create a sustainable and visually appealing landscape. Plant a few today!

Early Spring Gardener’s Calendar

* Plan your summer vegetable and herb garden. We offer a wide selection of seeds that include all of your favorite annuals, perennials, vegetables and other novelties as well as many hard-to-find selections. Inventory your pots and flats and discard unusable ones. Make a list of the supplies you will need. Have your garden soil tested for nutrient content. We offer a variety of do-it-yourself soil test kits.

* Prune woody plants while dormant, including fruit trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs and vines. Limit pruning of spring-blooming trees and shrubs to the removal of sucker growth and rubbing or broken branches. Spray trees and shrubs with year-round horticultural oil to reduce insect population.

* Sharpen, clean and oil tools and lawn mowers. Begin heavy annual pruning of shrub roses as new leaves appear.

* Plant pansies, English daisies and primrose as soon as the earth is workable. Plant strawberry plants. Sow cool-season vegetables and herbs in the garden.

* Start spring cleanup and begin major lawn work. Remove debris, dethatch your lawn or aerate compacted areas to improve water penetration.

* Spray needles and limbs of Arborvitae, Cryptomeria, false cypress, fir, hemlock, Juniper, pine, yew and spruce (except blue spruce) for spider mites with year-round horticultural oil.

* Apply fertilizer to perennials and roses with. Feed berry bushes, grapevines, rhubarb and asparagus a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer before new growth begins. Fertilize trees and shrubs.

*Apply crabgrass preventer with fertilizer to feed the lawn and control crabgrass. Do not use on newly seeded lawns.

* Continue spring cleanup. Cultivate to remove winter weeds and debris from the planting beds. Apply corn gluten or a pre-emergent herbicide with fertilizer specified for gardens and scratch it in to prevent future weeds. Do not use in gardens where you will be direct seeding.

* Reseed bare spots in established lawns. Keep the area moist until seedlings appear, then mow when the new grass is 3? high.

* Prune forsythia and other spring-flowering trees & shrubs after the flowers fall.

* Dig and divide crowded early spring bulbs after they finish blooming. Enrich the soil with bone meal.

* Plant and transplant trees and shrubs, including roses, ground covers, and perennials.

* Transplant cool-season seedlings into the garden. When the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees, sow warm-season vegetable and herb seeds.

* Place gro-thru sets over peonies, grasses or any other perennials in need of support.

Eastern North American Native Ferns

Ferns are magnificent, whether in the wild or under cultivation. Among the oldest plants on earth, ferns can be traced back to the Coal Age, over 300 million years ago. Today, ferns are one of the most overlooked and under-utilized perennials in the garden.

Types of Ferns

Eastern North American native ferns are available in a vast array of sizes, forms and textures and thrive in a variety of habitats. Many ferns present a combination of both fertile (with spores) and infertile (without spores) fronds that add an additional element of interest to their growth and texture. Some ferns prefer sun, some shade. Some prefer moist soil, some dry. Some spread quickly, some stay put. Some are easy to grow, some… not so much. You get the picture – the versatility of this plant group ensures a selection for every gardener and every garden situation.

With so many ferns to choose from, which is right for your landscaping needs? Consider the following popular varieties, or come in to consult with our landscaping experts to find the perfect fern to complement your landscape.

Cinnamon Fern (Osmunda cinnamomea) – Grows 24-36 inches tall. The stiff fertile fronds appear in spring, first green and later turning cinnamon-brown. The plant grows neatly in a symmetrical clump. This fern does best in a shady site with moist soil.
Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) – This is one of the few evergreen ferns native to the eastern United States. The leathery fronds of this durable fern reach 18 inches in height. The Christmas fern is not an aggressive spreader and is easy to nurture in a moist, shady garden.
Hay-Scented Fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula) – This lovely fern grows to about two feet in height and spreads rapidly. Spreading may be controlled by pulling out some of the growth in spring. This fern does best in full sun to partial shade and will tolerate somewhat hot, dry sites. Hay-scented fern produces lightly scented, apple-green, lacy fronds that add delicacy to the garden.
Interrupted Fern (Osmunda claytoniana) – This fern is unusual for its sterile, three-foot tall fronds that have brown spore cases in the middle of the frond with pale green leaflets both above and below. Interrupted fern grows best in a shady site with moist soil. This fern will tolerate more light and drier soil than most, and it is remarkably easy to grow.
Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina) – This fern can reach up to 36 inches, although its height can be quite variable. This easy-to-grow fern is an excellent choice for beginners. In the spring, Lady ferns produce a hearty flush of reddish-green growth. This is when the plant is most beautiful. Lady fern does best in shady conditions with slightly acid, moist to wet soil.
Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum pedatum) – At 18 inches tall, this specimen is the daintiest of the Eastern North American native ferns. The fan-like leaves are borne on delicate, curving, black stems. This fern does best in filtered light and well-drained, cool soil. This fern spreads fairly slowly.
Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) – This fern produces light-green, gracefully arching fronds that reach up to 40 inches or more. This is an excellent choice for background planting. Underground runners extend in all directions and will colonize large areas, so it needs abundant space. The early spring fiddleheads are edible. Ostrich fern does best in sun to partial shade and moist soil. It is native to marshy areas.
Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis) – This fern forms a three-foot, vase-shaped clump of bright green fronds. Light brown spores are borne on the top of the fertile fronds. Royal fern does best in shade or sun and a moist organic soil.
Sensitive Fern (Onoclea sensibilis) – This fern makes a spectacular ground cover of 18 inch high, light green fronds. The fronds emerge in the spring tinged pinkish-purple until maturity. This fern prefers average moisture and part sun.

Keeping Cats Out of the Garden

Do you love cats but don’t love them in your garden? Outdoor cats will seek out a nice patch of soil to do their business or to roll around and play. Cats will mark their territories on sheds, fences or plants, and may even raise a new litter under a deck or in an open shed. Fortunately, there are a number of safe yet effective ways to keep our furry friends, or those of our neighbors, from messing up the garden.

Discouraging Cats

Whether the cats visiting your garden are prowling pets, lost strays or wild-bred feral cats, the same techniques can be used to make your garden and landscape less cat-friendly. Popular options include…

Commercial Repellents
There are a many effective odor and taste repellents on the market. Seek out a product that is safe for humans and animals made from botanical oils. You will need to reapply this type of repellent after a heavy rain but usage will decrease once the cat is retrained to go elsewhere.

Citrus Smells
Cats don’t like the sharp, tangy smell of citrus. Instead of composting them, throw the peels of oranges, lemons, limes and grapefruit on the ground where cats tend to visit.

Heavily Scented Plants
Some plants are known to repel cats by their scent, particularly plants with strong odors that will irritate sensitive feline noses. Try planting Coleus canina, otherwise known as scaredy cat plant, along with pennyroyal, rue, lemon-thyme, geranium or lavender throughout the yard and garden.

Uncomfortable Ground
Use stones instead of mulch as a ground cover to prevent cats from digging. Sharper, larger stones are best and will be uncomfortable for cats to walk across or lay on as well. You can also lay chicken wire on top of the mulch to make it less comfortable for cats and to prevent digging.

Opt for Thorns
Plant low growing, thorny plants such as carpet roses, barberry or prickly pear at the base of your bird feeder to protect your feathered friends from predatory cats. Use thorny plants in borders or alongside fences to help keep cats away as well. Even plants with sharp, stiff foliage, such as holly, can be effective.

Sprinklers
Install a motion-activated sprinkler. This method is used to frighten cats away, not to soak them. As the cat is retrained to go elsewhere its use eventually becomes unnecessary.

Sound Deterrents
Install an ultrasound device containing a motion sensor which, when triggered, gives off a high-pitched sound that is imperceptible to humans but bothersome to cats. With their sensitive ears, cats may avoid any area where the sound is strongest.
Remove Food
Be sure there are no food sources for outdoor cats in your yard. Do not feed your own pets outside, and keep trash cans tightly covered or inside a garage where cats cannot reach them. Keep compost piles behind a fence and under a mesh cover as well so cats cannot forage for scraps.

Using several techniques simultaneously will have the best effect at discouraging cats. These are clever, intelligent creatures that can easily overcome one obstacle, but when you have used several tactics at once, the cats will take the easier route of simply staying away.

What You Should Never Do

While there are many ways to keep cats out of your yard, you should never take steps that could deliberately injure or kill the animals. Avoid harmful traps, toxic poisons or setting your dogs on outdoor cats, as these methods can easily backfire and hurt local wildlife instead. With patience and perseverance, it is possible to keep cats out of your garden safely.

Needled Evergreens for a Shady Space

Evergreens are a very important addition to the winter landscape. During the coldest months of the year, when most other plants have been stripped of their leaves or have died back to the ground, evergreens are the stronghold in the garden that provide stunning texture and color, shelter for winter wildlife and the hope of spring for everyone.

Choosing a broad-leafed evergreen for a shady location in the garden is simple. There are so very many to choose from: Rhododendron, azalea, camellia, aucuba and cherry laurel are just the beginning, and there are many more options for any size or shape of shady space. It’s a different story when it comes to hunting for a needled evergreen for that darker corner of the landscape, but it is not impossible.

Popular needled evergreen options for shady spaces include…

Canadian Hemlock (Tsuga canandensis) – Broadly conical and gracefully branched, reaching up to 75 feet high.
Dragon’s Eye Pine (Pinus densiflora ‘Oculus-draconis’) – Part shade. A very unique, asymmetrically shaped pine with a pale halo on the needles.
Dwarf Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtuse ‘Nana Gracillis’) – Slowing growing, compact plant with dark green scale-like leaves.
Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) – Light shade. Graceful, pyramidal tree with bluish-green scaly foliage and exfoliating cinnamon-colored bark. Growing to 65 feet tall.
Japanese Umbrella Pine (Sciadopitys verticillata) – Light Shade. Needles are thick and succulent, whorled around the branches.
Nootka False Cypress (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis) – Light to part shade. Narrowly pyramidal growing up to 60 feet tall.
Russian Cypress (Microbiota decussate) – Part shade to full shade. Low to the ground forming a rosette of soft, graceful branches. Great ground cover for a shady location.
Spreading English Yew (Taxas bacata repandans) – Part shade to full shade. Three feet high and mounding. Great foundation plant in front of windows or at the back of borders.
Upright Japanese Plum Yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia ‘Fastigiata’) – Part to full shade. Four foot tall, stiff, linear form.
American White Cedar (Thuja occidentalis) – Light to part shade. Scale-like foliage formed into flat plane fans. Grows up to 40 feet tall.
False Arborvitae (Thujopsis dolabrata) – Light to part shade. Pale green leaf scales with white undersides. Grow up to 65 feet tall.

Not sure which of these evergreens may do well in your landscape? There are different cultivars to explore, and our experts can help you make the best choice for your landscaping needs.

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Butterfly Bush

What could be more enjoyable than relaxing in your favorite lawn chair or hammock, your sunglasses on and a cool beverage in hand, staring at an enchanting array of colorful butterflies milling around their favorite plant? What could possibly be an easier way to accomplish this vision than by planting a simple butterfly bush?

About Butterfly Bush

Buddleia davidii, the butterfly bush, is a flowering maniac. It pushes its proliferation of perfumed blooms straight through summer and well into fall, providing nourishment to butterflies all season long. Available in a multitude of colors ranging from white to pink to red to purple, there are colorful butterfly bushes to match any garden or landscape color scheme. The fragrant, long, spiked panicles are borne in profusion on long, gracefully arching branches that add drama and elegance to the yard. And it really is a butterfly magnet!

Growing Butterfly Bush

This quick growing, deciduous, woody shrub is winter hardy in zones 5-10. In the northernmost areas of its hardiness range, Buddleia behaves like a herbaceous perennial, dying back to the ground in very cold winters. In the southernmost areas, Buddleia is grown as large shrub and can flourish all year. In either location, however, you should treat this plant as a cut back shrub. Because butterfly bush blooms on new wood, it benefits the plant to be cut back to the ground each spring. This judicious pruning will stimulate lavish new growth and an abundance of flowers. It will also keep some of the larger varieties at a manageable size, particularly in smaller yards, corners or other confined spaces.

Plant your butterfly bush in full sun in just about any type of soil and it will thrive. Don’t worry about fertilizing as over-fertilization can encourage too much leaf growth over flower formation. Deadheading will encourage additional growth and new flower buds to extend the blooming season. Buddleia has a good tolerance for drought once established, but should be carefully watered when young. A good, thick layer of mulch will help maintain soil moisture and keep weeds down to keep the shrub healthy. Just be sure not to use insecticides or pesticides on your butterfly bush or you may be harming the very fluttering fliers you hope to attract.

Not sure which butterfly bush to try? Consider these varieties to choose the perfect color and style to suit your yard.

Recommended Buddleia Varieties by Color

White Butterfly Bushes

‘Nanho Alba’: 6-8’ height, blue-green leaves, mildly fragrant
‘Silver Frost’: 5-6’ height, silver-gray leaves
‘White Ball’: 3-4’ height, silver foliage, compact habit
‘White Bouquet’: 8-10’ height, gray-green leaves, flowers have orange throat
‘White Cloud’: 8-10’ height, gray-green leaves, flowers have yellow eye
‘White Harlequin’: 8-10’ height, variegated leaves

Pink Butterfly Bushes

‘Charming’: 6-10’ height, blue-green leaves, flowers have orange throat
‘Fascination’: 8-12’ height, lilac-pink flowers with cupped petals
‘Pink Delight’: 4-7’ height, gray-green leaves, true pink flowers, fragrant
‘Summer Beauty’: 5-6’ height, silvery leaves, pink-rose flowers
‘Summer Roae’: 8-10’ height, mauve-rose flowers, strong fragrance

Red Butterfly Bushes

‘Burgundy’: 8-10’ height, magenta-red flowers, fragrant
‘Dartmoor’: 8-10’ height, magenta flowers
‘Harlequin’: 6-8’ height, variegated leaves, reddish-purple flowers
‘Royal Red’: 10-12’ height, purple-red flowers, fragrant

Purple / Blue Butterfly Bushes

‘Black Knight’: 8-10’ height, deep violet-dark purple flowers
‘Bonnie’: 8-10’ height, light lavender flowers with orange eye, sweet fragrance
‘Ellen’s Blue’: 5-6’ height, silver leaves, deep blue flowers, orange eye, fragrant
‘Moon Shadow’: 3-4’ height, lilac purple buds open to lavender flowers
‘Nanho Blue’: 6-8’ height, gray-green leaves, mauve-blue flowers, fragrant
‘Orchid Beauty’: 6-8’ height, lavender-blue flowers, fragrant
‘Potter’s Purple’: 6-10’ height, deep purple flowers, mild fragrance

Attracting Hummingbirds

It is an awesome sight to capture a glimpse of a ruby-throated hummingbird hovering over the flower garden on a sunny summer morning. One or two a year may be seen seeking food in the landscape, sampling everything in their path. Unfortunately, they leave as rapidly as they arrive. This season, attract more of these miniature avian anomalies and keep them returning year after year.

What Hummingbirds Want

You can charm hummingbirds to your yard with a selection of their favorite nectar-producing flowers. Hummingbirds are not attracted by scent but by color. Red happens to be their favorite, however, pink, purple, blue, orange and yellow will also catch their eye. Tubular flowers accommodate these birds’ long, narrow bills. Select a wide variety of plants that bloom at different times to keep hummers well fed all season long. Refrain from using insecticides when attracting hummingbirds, as they rely on insects for protein in their diets – especially during the summer nesting season when young hummers need extra protein for healthy growth.

Hanging a feeder is another way to encourage these visitors. Choose one with red parts to resemble the flowers that they prefer. Fill the feeder with a mixture of one part sugar to four parts hot water to help the sugar dissolve. Fill the feeders after the mixture has cooled. Easier yet, fill with instant nectar purchased at our store. Clean feeders every 2-3 days early and late in the season, and daily in hot weather.

Plants That Attract Hummingbirds

The easiest way to keep hummingbirds fed without the hassle of refilling and cleaning feeders is to provide a lush landscape filled with their favorite flowers. Fortunately, that’s easy to do because these birds will sample nectar from a wide variety of blooms. No matter what your yard size, soil type, sun exposure or moisture levels, there are plants you can add to the landscape to entice hungry hummers to stop for a snack.

Annuals

Flowering Tobacco
Four-O-Clocks
Fuchsia
Geraniums
Impatiens
Mealy Blue Sage
Mexican Bush Sage
Nasturtium
Petunia
Pineapple Sage
Red Salvia
Zinnia

Bulbs

Canna
Gladiolus

Perennials & Biennials

Bugleweed
Bee Balm
Beard Tongue
Cardinal Flower
Columbine
Coral Bells
Daylily
Delphinium
Gaura
Hollyhocks
Hosta
Phlox

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Spiked Gayfeather
Lily
Rose Mallow
Russell Hybrid Lupine

Vines

Cypress Vine
Honeysuckle
Morning Glory
Scarlet Runner Bean
Trumpet Vine

Shrubs

Azalea
Butterfly Bush
Glossy Abelia
Lilac
Weigelax

Trees

Bottlebrush Buckeye
Catalpa

Fun Hummingbird Facts

Why not learn a little more about these fascinating birds? The more you know about their amazing abilities and unique characteristics, the more you’ll appreciate having them visit your yard!

Hummingbirds are the smallest birds in the world.
There are over 340 species of hummingbirds and they are found only in the western hemisphere. Most species are found in the tropics.
Hummers can hover as well as fly straight up and down, sideways, backwards and even upside down.
Hummingbirds beat their wings about 75 times per second.
They can drink eight times their body weight and consume about 500 insects daily.

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The Use of Focal Points in the Landscape

We have all used focal points in our daily lives, from showcasing favorite photos in a gallery wall to throw pillows adding a pop of color on the sofa to choosing accessories to highlight our best features. But did you know you can use landscape focal points in a similar way, drawing the eye to the very best features of your home and property to accentuate its unique characteristics and highlight its beauty? Learn how to truly showcase your landscaping with the best focal points to give your home extra flair.

What Is a Focal Point?

A focal point is a highlighted, outstanding feature that draws the eye and grabs attention. In the landscape, this can be nearly any type of feature, from plants to structures to hardscaping to ornamentation. Popular landscaping focal points include…

Unique specimen plants, either unusual varieties, unique shapes or exceptional sizes
Water features such as ponds, waterfalls or fountains
Boulders, terraces or other dramatic hardscape details
A bird feeding station or other wildlife-oriented feature
A colorful flowerbed, container garden or even a dramatic window box
A statue or sculpture, even as simple as a gazing ball or sundial
Inviting structures such as gates, arbors, pergolas or arches
A seating area or other outdoor gathering space
A uniquely designed pathway, such as a mosaic, stepping stones or bridge
Specially designed pavers, such as a mural-like feature

A focal point can be anything unique, whether it is a naturally-occurring feature of the existing landscape or something you have dreamed of adding to your yard or garden.

The Purpose of a Focal Point

While a focal point initially draws the eye, it actually does far more than just attract attention. A well designed landscape will work with focal points to bring order and dimension to the yard, centralizing the view and directing guests’ viewpoints. A focal point can add character to the yard as well, whether it creates a sense of natural elegance, adds a chic, modern touch or even introduces a bit of whimsy to the landscape. Focal points can also help distract from less aesthetically pleasing views, such as drawing attention away from a neighbor’s yard, minimizing the appearance of a trouble spot or redirecting sightlines away from a utility box or air conditioning unit.

Choosing a Landscaping Focal Point

Which focal point you choose for your landscape will depend on several factors, and you want to consider each one carefully when planning to use a focal point.

Yard Size: The focal point should be proportionally sized to the yard. A too-large focal point will overwhelm a small, intimate yard, making it seem more crowded and cramped, while a too-small focal point can be lost in a larger space.
Landscape Style: A focal point should coordinate with the style of the yard and garden. A cozy cottage garden can look great when focused around a romantic statue or elegant bird bath, but a stark obelisk would look out of place.
Seasonal Changes: Ideally, a focal point will remain attractive and eye-catching throughout the year, even with seasonal changes in nearby plants and light levels. Opt for a focal point that can be enjoyed year-round for the best results.
Viewing Angles: A good focal point will draw the eye in a pleasing way no matter where it is viewed from, including different angles, windows or approaches. Paying attention to every viewpoint will ensure the focal point serves its purpose however it is viewed.

Once these factors are considered, a landscape may have one or more focal points. So long as they are balanced and appropriate to the yard’s design, they can be beautiful features that will be stunning highlights in the landscape.

Designing Your Landscape Around a Focal Point

Once you have selected a focal point for the landscape, it is best to coordinate the landscape’s overall design to enhance and complement that focus. This will ensure its beauty and prominence in the landscape without creating an overwhelming or dominating effect. Easy ways to design your landscape around a focal point include…

Paying attention to symmetry to draw the eye to the focal point. You may opt for a completely symmetrical, geometric layout to lead the eye to the focal point, or choose a deliberately asymmetrical design that builds dramatically to the focus.
Coordinate colors, plants and other features to work with the focal point rather than contrast and detract from it. Coordinated colors, shapes and textures – even when used in variety – can add to your focal point and enhance its beauty and drama.
Highlight the focal point without blocking it from view, particularly when considering views from different angles and in different seasons. This may include regular pruning and other care to keep the surrounding landscape in check.
Keep the focal point in good condition so it is not a disappointment when it draws the eye. Plants should be properly pruned and shaped, while statues and other accents may need regular cleaning. Structures may need regular repairs or repainting to look their best.
Consider muting nearby landscaping features to further highlight the focal point. Opt for more subtle plants and fewer accents away from the focal point to ensure no other areas of the landscape compete with the intended focus.
Design pathways, borders and lighting to highlight the focal point and draw attention to the appropriate space, both visually and physically. This will keep your focal point centralized in the landscape at all times, serving its purpose as your landscape highlight.

A focal point is more than just a highlight of your yard, it can become the centerpiece of your landscape, set the mood for your outdoor space and showcase the beauty of your home. Working with a focal point can help you draw together the entire space in an eye-catching way you’ll always be proud to see.

Want to design your landscape around an appropriate focal point? Our design experts can help you choose just the right focus and create a stunning look to highlight your landscape’s best features!

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